My Nissan Urvan conversion

[Urvey Member Find all posts View Profile Close Urvey]

Hi all,

I'm in the early stages of converting my van. I'll post my progress here with some photos (when I can get my camera to work) and hopefully it may help others and others may help me too.

My van is a Nissan Urvan, DI, VE type IP (rotary) I purchased it about 5 months ago. This is the first vehicle I've owned, at the time of purchase I didn't even look in the engine compartment because I didn't know what anything was, let alone whether it was any good. I've come along way (I know what an injection pump is now) but I still have A LOT to learn.

I learnt about using VO when hitching in the states. I rode for 3 days on a guys bus stopping at Chinese restaurants to suck out oil from their bins. When I got back I told all my mates that we are going on a 2 month trip from Adelaide to Tasmania to Darwin and back after Christmas, all running on VO. Christmas is fast approaching and my mates are starting to organize other vehicles. However there is no way in hell I'm riding in their cars for 2 months guzzling petrol and feeling like a dick, I must get this done.

My system will use:
-one of Tony’s FPHE insulated with camping mat foam

-2 pollak 6 port valves (but used as 3 port valves)

-Cav filter (with primer pump) this will have the coolant hose wrapped around the center part about 5 times and then insulated

-Boost gauge to measure pressure at IP

-75L plastic tank for Vegy

-9.5mm fuel hose for both fuel line and ‘T’d off coolant line. Return line diameter??

I will have HOH the entire length of my fuel line and insulated with foam. I will also have a temperature gauge but haven’t worked it out yet.

So far I’ve started planning where everything will go and installing brackets to hold my valves and FPHE in place.

Any tips/comments would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Bryan

[Fitian Was here Find all posts View Profile Close Fitian]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Great thread Bryan,

What is the idea behind the 2 Pollak valves? I am using two fuel tanks and yet I have one pollak valve.

Good job mate,

Fitian

[Urvey Member Find all posts View Profile Close Urvey]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

When I decided on the 2x 3 port valves, I was having trouble starting my van in the morning. I was worried about that little bit of VO in a 6 port valve system being dumped into my diesel tank and adding to the problem. Using 2x 3 port valves I can change back to diesel fuel, wait a little bit and then change the return back to diesel, avoiding any VO in my diesel tank. I believe this system may also have a shorter purge time compared to a 6 port return to diesel, looped VO system.

One question, I'm installing my 9.5mm hose from the Pollak to a barbed fitting on my IP. The barbed fitting is designed for a 7.5mm hose, how much can you get away with using hose clamps? Should I be using an adapter?

Cheers

Bryan

[Fitian Was here Find all posts View Profile Close Fitian]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

When I decided on the 2x 3 port valves, I was having trouble starting my van in the morning. I was worried about that little bit of VO in a 6 port valve system being dumped into my diesel tank and adding to the problem. Using 2x 3 port valves I can change back to diesel fuel, wait a little bit and then change the return back to diesel, avoiding any VO in my diesel tank. I believe this system may also have a shorter purge time compared to a 6 port return to diesel, looped VO system.

I doubt that the small amount of the returned VO to the diesel tank will cause anymore dramas but since you could afford 2 valves then you might as well use them.

One question, I'm installing my 9.5mm hose from the Pollak to a barbed fitting on my IP. The barbed fitting is designed for a 7.5mm hose, how much can you get away with using hose clamps? Should I be using an adapter.
Bryan

2mm is too much in my opinion. Hose clamps can only go so far. You do not want air leak getting into your fuel line. I'd use 7.5 mm hose for both ends if the valve barb would take it with a touch of oil around the edge, if not then an adapter is the way to go. You need an air tight system to avoid trouble.

Where are you geting your hoses from? Clark Rubber? They are the best in price and quality.

keep up the good work mate.

Fitian

[Urvey Member Find all posts View Profile Close Urvey]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Yes, clark rubber is the go.

Where can I buy adaptors with such small diameters? I rang around today and no one seemed to have any.

Bryan

[Fitian Was here Find all posts View Profile Close Fitian]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Where can I buy adaptors with such small diameters? I rang around today and no one seemed to have any.
Bryan

I can sort this out for you tomorrow if you could wait. Last time I bought an adapter I paid around $12 from a fittings workshop. If you go to ENZED it might cost you $30 or more. Tell me what you want to do.

Cheers,

Fitian

[Tony From West Oz Vice Chairperson of WARFA Find all posts View Profile Close Tony From West Oz]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Bryan,
If you need help, just ask, I am ready to support you in this conversion. I am familiar with the URVAN with the SL23 engine too (not on veggie though).

It is easier to have a smaller hose fit a large barb than to clamp a large hose down onto a small barb. It is best to have the barbs at both ends of the hose to be the correct size for the hose.

Can you obtain a 9.5 mm barb for the IP ? This would seem to be the best solution for your situation.

There is no need for your Turbo Boost gauge as the fuel system would never get to have pressure at the IP inlet, unless a fuel pump was added.

Have you done work on a fuel filtering setup for filtering the oil after collection and before refuelling?

How do you plan to deal with high melting point oils in your unheated fuel tank?

Regards,
Tony

[tbird650 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close tbird650]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Urvey

If you are having starting problems from cold, most times it's some dead glow plugs. With 1 dead plug you could live with, 2 dead and you notice the difference, 3 dead and starting becomes very difficult, 4 dead and you might not get started at all if it's very cold ambient temp. (4cylinder)

Re: 2 pollak valves
One important thing to remember with independant switching of fuel lines and return lines is that you MUST not forget to switch the return lines!
I have forgotten on more than one occasion. The "penalty" is vege in the diesel tank. A small amount is no problem but because more fuel gets "returned" than gets injected means the problem can become extreme rather quickly.

4points:
Don't fill diesel tank to the brim in case.

Once you switch to vege, keep your hand on the return line control till you actually switch it! (somewhere around 1 -2mins depending on setup)

You could possibly keep the system looped all the time, though occassional returning to a tank will bleed any accumulated air. (permanent loop will make changeover period longer)

A clear portion of return line to tank, in view of driver, is helpful to assess if any accumulated air has leaked into system.

Tbird

[tbird650 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close tbird650]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

re dead glow plugs

Yep....runs rough for 15 seconds or so, just like you say...and smokey.

Glow plugs only have a life of 2 or 3 years if you're lucky. Inevitably when plug/s fail, the immediate solution is to re-glow a second or third time just to get the motor started. Which you could argue, hastens the failure of the remaining good ones.

[Urvey Member Find all posts View Profile Close Urvey]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Thank you for your help and support everyone.

I've found that with a lot of persuasion, I can fit the 7.5mm hose over the Pollak barb so I guess this is the easiest way to do it. Fitian, thanks for the adaptor offer, much appreciated.

3 of my 4 glow plugs were stuffed so that explains my starting problem.

David,

I looked into buying 3 port Pollak valves but I saw a picture of them, and they look as if they are literally 6 port valves with caps over 3 of the ports. They would be no smaller, I see no advantage in getting them. Vegycars sells the 3 port variety though.

Tbird,

Thanks for the warning. It seems like the advantages of a 2x 3 port system are a lot less than I had imagined. How much shorter is the purge time for a 2x 3 port system with looped vegy return compared with the 6 port equivalent? Maybe I should think about just installing a 6 port system for simplicity sakes, as I'm running out of time.

Tony,

My van is an E24 type. I don't know how different this is to the 23?

I was thinking that I may need to install a lift pump later down the track if the suction from the IP is not sufficient. This is why I decided on the boost gauge which I've already purchased. Hopefully I wont need a lift pump!

Yes, I have started thinking about prefiltering and I've already bought a few parts as well. I will prefilter cold into a 55 gallon drum using 5 micron sock filters. I will then use a hot water service element to heat the VO in the drum and speed up settling time. Then I will use a rotary hand pump to take the oil from the top.

I'm hoping that I wont need a tank heater (I may reconsider this in winter). I did a test on the oil I'm presently collecting and before filtering and at 10 degrees it is still very runny. Hopefully when I'm travelling around I can also find good oil.


Cheers

Bryan


Oh, by the way, how do I quote multiple people in one message?

[Fitian Was here Find all posts View Profile Close Fitian]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Oh, by the way, how do I quote multiple people in one message?

While you are at the reply box, Select the text(s) [one text atthe time] you wish to quote by scrolling down to where it is wretten. copy it and paste it At the reply box. Reselect it again at the reply box and use the "Wrap [quote] tags around selected text" tool from the message tool bar - 4th tool from the left.

the text

If you wish to add the name of the person who wrote the text simply add their name by adding =NAME.

the text

This is how I would do it. I am sure there are lots of computer people here to do it much better.


Regards.

Fitian

[Tony From West Oz Vice Chairperson of WARFA Find all posts View Profile Close Tony From West Oz]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Once you switch to vege, keep your hand on the return line control till you actually switch it! (somewhere around 1 -2mins depending on setup)

There is no problem switching both supply and return lines to veggie at the same time. the problem comes when switching from veggie to diesel ar shutdown purge time. The point of sequential switching (supply line first, then return line) is to send the veggie oil which is in the IP and return line to the veggie tank rather than to the diesel tank.
I agree with your suggestion of holding on to the switch, but it would be easier to use a timer delay and buzzer or automatically switch the return line after the delay. Turbo Timer kirts from Jaycar can be modified for a longer delay (I used 5 minutes) and used automatically switch the fuel supplly line at ignition off, have the engine run on for the time delay then switch the return valve and shut off the engine, without firther human involvement. This kit also provides for manual override of the purge sequence.

David,
You could use a standard plumbing ball valve in the coolant line to your heater, to stop the flow. Why do you need a 3 way valve for this function?

Bryan, What year is your Urvan?


Tony

[tbird650 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close tbird650]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

You could use a standard plumbing ball valve in the coolant line to your heater, to stop the flow. Why do you need a 3 way valve for this function

I agree with Tony, a ball would be all that is necessary. The point to note is that the heat exchanger should be PARALLEL with the heater and NOT in SERIES with it.

Thanks for the warning. It seems like the advantages of a 2x 3 port system are a lot less than I had imagined. How much shorter is the purge time for a 2x 3 port system with looped vegy return compared with the 6 port equivalent? Maybe I should think about just installing a 6 port system for simplicity sakes, as I'm running out of time.

Quicker purge times can be had with systems that utilize independant filters for the two fuels. After switching back to diesel and unlooping, I suggest purge time of around 2 minutes. I generally switch somewhere around a km from home and then by the time I open the gate and park up ....it's all done. The small amount of vege that gets back to the diesel tank doesn't appear to be any significant problem though you can smell the vege in the exhaust even with that small amount.

Yes, I have started thinking about prefiltering and I've already bought a few parts as well. I will prefilter cold into a 55 gallon drum using 5 micron sock filters. I will then use a hot water service element to heat the VO in the drum and speed up settling time. Then I will use a rotary hand pump to take the oil from the top.

I suggest do the settling part before any filtering, otherwise you will have instant blocked filter.....with fats!! See my blog for details:
Vege van....Toyota Hiace

[Urvey Member Find all posts View Profile Close Urvey]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Bryan, What year is your Urvan?

It's a 92. Would you know for sure if it is a direct injection? Someone told me once that is was but I started to question it when I read a post saying that "80% of diesels with glowplugs are indirect injection". How do you tell?

For some reason after working on my van today the glow plug light does not turn on when I turn the key to the second click and the van will not start. The starter motor sounds like it's doing it's job so I'm guessing the glowplugs just aren't turning on. Any ideas of what I may have done wrong?

Today I moved my diesel fuel filter from its compartment right behind the drivers seat to the battery compartment which is on the floor in the back. I did this to create a nice space for all my new parts. I added 1.5m of new fuel line and 2 brass hose connectors.The filters water sensors electrical lead will not reach now so I think I'll just leave it unconnected. When removing my battery, I broke one of the terminals so I replaced them. After putting the battery back in I tried starting the van. When I turned the ignition, the glow plug light would turn on but not turn back off and the vehicle wouldn't start. It took me a while to realise that I'd put the battery around the wrong way. Could have this damaged my glowplugs/timer?

Hopefully the rest of my conversion will go a bit smoother.

I look forward to your answers.

Bryan

[Urvey Member Find all posts View Profile Close Urvey]

Re: My Nissan Urvan conversion

Yep, I stuffed up.

I've blown a 75A fuse right near the battery. I also have a 15A fuse called 'engine control' blowing every time I try and start her up. My radio doesn't work either.

On the up side..... my dash lights, head lights and starter motor all work.

I think I may need an auto electrician for this one!