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  • making it

    hi guys i am new to this and really keen to understand the making of good quality bio diesel.... i was just wondering about all the equipment i need and a receipe. and the does and dont's... i have been told that you let the wvo sit for 6 months to let all the rubbish settle to the bottom. Then syphen the good oil out and leave the rubbish in the bottom. then heat it to 100degrees to get rid of any water that may be in the oil. and then all these chemicals u add. not sure bout that. how do i no its good? a friend told me u check the ph level. can someone confirm my my questions and correct me if my info wrong. thanks heaps.....

  • #2
    Re: making it

    Hi and welcome. There are two ways to use WVO. One is to use it as it is in the diesel vehicle with certain modifications done to the fuel lines, and the other is to chemically alter it to use in diesel engines without the need for modification, ie it becomes bio diesel.
    I have a posting on this forum which is a response to a similar request like yours.

    http://www.biofuelsforum.com/showthread.php?t=32


    I am in north Brisbane and interested in meeting up with like minded people to possibly share the cost of bulk chemicals and share experiences. I have a source of free 20 ltr drums if you are local and want some.

    Regards
    Peter

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    • #3
      Re: making it

      Bio Diesel Kid, here is a link to the best homemade biodiesel forum. There is more than 5 years of research on this forum

      http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=cfrm&s=447609751

      Use the search function first, every question you have has been answered heaps of times on that forum.

      The idea of "quality" biodiesel is a political, marketing, and physical concept, it does include objective qualities, but they are weighed subjectively.

      You choose the feedstock - is it canola or coconut oil so it creates a low gel point, or is it lard or palm oil?

      Do you need 96% conversion, or 85% conversion, or just straight vegetable oil to make your engine run without any problems?

      Do you wash? Do you add used engine oil?

      I am going to send Robert some information I wrote for some politicians and bureacrats about homemade biodiesel and standards. He might want to add it to the archives. If he does, then he could link this message to the article.
      Robert
      Administrator
      Last edited by Robert; 4 November 2005, 04:50 PM.

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      • #4
        Re: making it

        Hi Terry,

        I've just posted up your letter on the site and you can find it here.
        I'll go back and link it from your last message too. It's also linked from the FAQ on making biodiesel on the sydneybiodiesel site.
        Robert.
        Site Admin.

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        • #5
          Re: making it

          Thanks Robert, now that we are into the warmer summer months some of the members might want to try an experiment. Go down to the market and purchase a couple of litres of cheap vegetable oil. Now walk out to your vehicle and pour it into the fuel tank and drive home (diesel vehicles only, please).

          There are some newer common rail systems that might be a bit fussy about this experiment, but for anyone with a Mercedes or a Toyota indirect injection motor there should be no problems.

          In some European countries people noticed that vegetable oil was cheaper than diesel, so they did the obvious thing and started using vegetable oil as fuel. The Governments didn't like this and clamped down on people for avoiding the excise tax.

          I suggest that members give this experiment a go. If you are ever caught out someplace and there is no diesel fuel available - you'll have an idea as to what to do in order to finish your journey.

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          • #6
            Re: making it

            Terry, how long could you just put in oil straight from the shop, without trouble.

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            • #7
              Re: making it

              Depends a lot on the type of injection system, oil, etc. I understand that common rail systems seem to have more trouble than the indirect injection system with pumping higher viscosity fuels through them. I don't know the reason for this, I have never looked into the mechanics on a common rail system.

              You would probably not want to use 100% vegetable oil in cooler climates. Some people will blend in 50% vegetable oil into their biodiesel to increase the amount of fuel they can make. However, if the weather is cold, then you risk some damage if the pump can't handle the viscosity.

              Other than viscosity, is the problem with FFAs in the oil. The FFAs are neutralised in the biodiesel reaction, however if you just pour in even fresh vegetable oil there will be a small amount of FFAs in the oil. The FFAs can promote rust in the injector system.

              That is why some people will blend in another quantity of WVO into their just processed biodiesel and mix it up with the biodiesel/glycerin - it is an attempt neutralise the FFAs.

              Further, some oils have a problem with polymerisation, which is a function of the iodine value of the oil. If I remember correctly, 100% lindseed oil is the worst offender. You can end up with gummed up rings in about an hour. Most other oils are much more forgiving, coconut oil has such a low iodine value that it theoretically could be run neat forever.

              It seems from the posts I have read, that it is the viscosity problem that causes the most problems.

              I don't have the experience of running straight vegetable oil or a WVO conversion. However, Tony from West Oz does. Maybe he could give us some further information.

              There is a very good thread starting up on this topic already -
              http://www.biofuelsforum.com/showthr...?p=326#post326
              Terry Syd
              Senior Member
              Last edited by Terry Syd; 15 November 2005, 11:08 AM.

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