Engine Oil and running conditions.

[Jacka Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jacka]

Ok for those of you around here who have been running BD for a while and know how things go round and round

Been looking over the Engine Oil threads around the place and it started me thinking.

So I decided I would check my 05 Rodeo which is a Izuzu Engine. I decided I would lift the cap with the engine running and looked at the oil and the blowby. Now I know there will always be some blowby there is nothing really that can be done about it but what is normal? Now that got me thinking I can only come to the conclusion that Normal is different for every engine manurfactur and type.

So it got me thinking What is the correct amount of Blowby on my Rodeo. I never did check when it was new 12 months ago so I am not sure what it would have been, but at the moment it is about a normal type breath out preasure. I do remember a few years ago I have a Gemni which also had a Izuzu engine and 200000km's on the clock and it would almost blow the cap of if you unscrewed it. This current one won't even move the cap when you unscrew it so that must be a good sign

So what is an OK blowby for this type of engine with 50,000Km on the clock anyway have any ideas?


Also something that in the process now has me thinking. I run the engine on the 10,000Km Oil change routine that Holden say for changes. I see that BD differs from dinodiesel that it will not evap from the oil like dino does. SO I check to see what my oil was like as it is near it's oilchange at the moment and it is not what I would have expected at all which is really very dishearting at this point. The oil appeared to have about the same consistancy as when it was poured in at the last oil change. Normally I don't look just take it to the Mech and get the service done being a new car and all still under warantry. I thought this is really strange as usally the diesel oil thins out of the period to just before the oil change when I have seen it like water in some case's in consistancy. But this was not. Now this is a concern at this point. I will be putting the car in for an oil change and service in the next 24 hours to get new oil in it. I will also from the looks of it be reducing my oilchanges down from the recomended 10,000km to 5,000km to see what is happening.

Now I am wondering if the driving conditions that it is used at could also contribute to this type of oil condition?

I live 44Km from were I drive to generally every day and al but about 3km of that is Hwy driving, I drive with fuel econmy in mind running the engine at or around 2000rpm's 95% of the driving time. It is an automatic so this is fairly easy. I am wondering if the constant rate of rpm's and long trips with zero load might be adding to the way the oil it comming out? I do remember in the past when I had the gemini I used to thrash it all the time and drive it like any normal care and did not care about econmy at all and this is when at oil changes the oil looked like water. So I am wondering if this could also be a cause?

Anyone who knows more than I have a clue as to what is going on etc etc etc?

This is more and information fishing trip than anything and I am sure it will help others to learn as it does me

My Grandmother always said, till she passed, The day you stop learning is the day they put you 6' under. And to this day I still belive this

[Dodge Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Dodge]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

If your oil is like water and very black and leaves a very obvious black stain on your fingers its worn out, but if its black but still very oily or clean and very oily thats a good sign, it has still got capacity to carry inpurities.

[Matt Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Matt]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

There are companies that will check your oil for $29 and give a complete anlysis. From this you can see if its suitable to go one for another period.

Will send more info when I get home.

[Cameron Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close Cameron]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

Hi Jacka,
The oil analysis that you can get done are good - they check out your oil and not only tell you the condition of the oil itself but by analysing the contamninants etc they can give you an indication of how your engine is wearing.

Off the top my my head itmight be called 'Oil Monitor' but that may be wrong - I am sure someone else in here can give the correct name.

I did one a while ago and the results came up good. I have another kit at home and I am going to do it again soon to compare the wear etc.

This is why I did it rather than to tell me whether I needed to change my oil or not as I will do that at 5000km anyway to keep the motor running smooth and to do my best to ensure longevity and minimised pollutants.

Cheers,
Cameron

[Guest Close Marc1]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

I see that BD differs from dinodiesel that it will not evap from the oil like dino does. SO I check to see what my oil was like as it is near it's oilchange at the moment and it is not what I would have expected at all which is really very dishearting at this point. The oil appeared to have about the same consistancy as when it was poured in at the last oil change. Normally I don't look just take it to the Mech and get the service done being a new car and all still under warantry. I thought this is really strange as usally the diesel oil thins out of the period to just before the oil change when I have seen it like water in some case's in consistancy. But this was not. Now this is a concern at this point. I will be putting the car in for an oil change and service in the next 24 hours to get new oil in it. I will also from the looks of it be reducing my oilchanges down from the recomended 10,000km to 5,000km to see what is happening.

I am confused, you notice that the oil is almost as it was when new and you ae concerned? Would you prefer it was like water?

Your gut feeling to change oil every 5000 K is correct, no diesel engine should keep it's oil for 10,000 with the standard filtering system regardless of manufacturers claims. Only way to keep diesel oil for longer is by circulate it through a centrifuge. In this case, as the spanish say "The leash will be more expensive than the dog" so change your oil every 5000 religiously. In this way you will also avoid any adverse effects biodiesel may have on the oil, even when those are not proven yet.
PS
If I may suggest a good oil for small diesel engines is Penrite HPR diesel 5 for new engines. Penrite HPR diesel 15 for middle of the road engines and Penrite HPR diesel 20-60 for engines that are longer in the tooth or for very hot regions.

[Dodge Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Dodge]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

I just put penrite hpr 5 in my engine last week not cheap but the engine definatly likes it.

[george130 Biofuels Forum Newbie Find all posts View Profile Close george130]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

I am confused, you notice that the oil is almost as it was when new and you ae concerned? Would you prefer it was like water?

Your gut feeling to change oil every 5000 K is correct, no diesel engine should keep it's oil for 10,000 with the standard filtering system regardless of manufacturers claims. Only way to keep diesel oil for longer is by circulate it through a centrifuge. In this case, as the spanish say "The leash will be more expensive than the dog" so change your oil every 5000 religiously. In this way you will also avoid any adverse effects biodiesel may have on the oil, even when those are not proven yet.
PS
If I may suggest a good oil for small diesel engines is Penrite HPR diesel 5 for new engines. Penrite HPR diesel 15 for middle of the road engines and Penrite HPR diesel 20-60 for engines that are longer in the tooth or for very hot regions.

I should point out that the Land Rover Diesels do have a centrefuge filter as well as the standard filter. THe important thing with oil is to match it with your engine requirements. My Landy uses oil more like sowing machine oil than what you would put in most engines. The oil is also in amazingly good gondition at 10,000km.

[Dodge Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Dodge]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

My engine is a light weight job, 5 or 10w30 only, sowing machine oil, or from my past life motorbike fork oil.
I couldnt handle that, how is that gonna protect my engine, so i did what i have always done in the past, decide i know better.
I was wrong i put 15w30 or 40 in my engine, vechile ran the same as it did before the oil change, heaps of detonation, so i continued to drive it lightly to stop it from trying to kill itself, then after a few weeks decided that maybe i should put the right oil in it, maybe it will drop the compression a bit and eliminate the problem, my only concern was that the previous owner may had used a heavier oil to hide a problem.
So i used the hpr 5, and for me i felt like i was putting light cooking oil into my engine, went for a drive and no detonation, i was right, but if i let it idle for 5 minutes on a cold morning then drive of a small cloud of smoke in the rear vision mirror now, i can live with that.

[Cameron Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close Cameron]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

welcome george130,
nice to see some more landie people from the AULRO forum on here - especially a discerning driver of a 130!

Cheers,
Cameron

[george130 Biofuels Forum Newbie Find all posts View Profile Close george130]

Re: Engine Oil and running conditions.

welcome george130,
nice to see some more landie people from the AULRO forum on here - especially a discerning driver of a 130!

Cheers,
Cameron

Thanks. Once I recover from my rebuild I'm wanting to slowly introduce Bio to my beast. Start wiht 5% and increase over time to a 50/50 mix. We will be testing our first batches in an old merc till we know we have it right.