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Fuel Tank Construction.

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  • Fuel Tank Construction.

    I am looking for do/s and dont/s when making a bigger tank for my ute. It would be easier for me to make it out of new mild steel plate as I am doubtful of my S/Steel welding. I have had Biofuels dissolve paint off the inside of jerry cans so does that meen no oxide paint just bare steel.
    What about the fuel gauge. Baffles. Section construction for dissasembly for cleaning.
    Others.
    Cheers.
    Graham

  • #2
    Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

    Mild steel should be fine without nay coating on it.
    Baffles should be installed to reduce the weight shift when turning or acceleration/deceleration and it would be useful to have a large inspection opening on the top. This should be securely bolted in place. A cork or paper gasket may be necessary to prevent leakage at the cover.
    A tank drain should be installed.
    If adding heating pipes inside the tank, it is preferrable to use the same material as the tank for the pipes. This eliminates the possibility of dissimilar metal corrosion where they join.

    That's all I can think of at the monment however others may chime in with more information for you to consider.
    Please post photos of your finished product.
    Regards,
    Tony
    Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

    Current Vehicles in stable:
    '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
    '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
    '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

    Previous Vehicles:
    '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
    '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
    '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
    '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
    '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
    '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
    '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
    '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
    '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

    Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
    Adding images and/or documents to your posts

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

      I believe Tony covered it all

      add a fuel guage to suit the tank size you are making.

      It would be nice to add a heat guage if you are going to heat the tank.

      Please post photos of the tank after you finish it if possible

      Good luck
      Fitian
      <><

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

        Wow.
        That's pretty good.Thanks a lot. What do I do for the gauge if the tank is taller than the original. Do I extend the wire float support.Or do I need to get another type.If so where. The tanks that I have all have the outlet in the top. I would like to put it in the side just up from the bottom with enough clearance so the screen does not rub . I can also incorporate the heater with this outlet. What do you think of the outlet and heater pipes plumbed through a removable panel with a gasket seal. This will be easier to make outside on a bench.
        Cheers.
        Graham.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

          Hi I would suspect a marine/ yacht inspection hatch may be good for the inspection port, (they come in about 4")
          If you wanted to do it in stainless I would suggest it should be not much harder to weld than mild steel, (ss wire for migs and electrodes for arc are availible, aluminium is another story entirely)
          I wouldn't suggest stainless is needed, I have used mild steel with no dramas.
          cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

            If you are going to run straight WVO in the tank, then I recommend coating with POR15.

            Standard OEM tanks have an aluminised coating in them that doesn't cause any problems, but after market mild steel tanks can support growths which are not too good.

            Links to threads on this forum
            and here for one to gunge in fuel tank

            Unfortunately the photos have gone, but believe me, it was scary stuff! Thick and pasty and a bit like cooked pizza topping. Nice, but not in a fuel tank!!

            Coating is not necessary if you are going to only run BioD

            Tim
            Toyota Landcruiser 1988 HJ61 Manual Wagon
            12H-T turbo Direct Injection.
            Twin Tank setup runs on 100% WVO after warm up. 30 plate FPHE with 80°C output, 12mm fuel lines
            Start up and shut down electric fuel pump feeds IP direct.
            Front 4WDSytstems Lokka, Rear ARB airlokka for quick escapes up sandhills. Performance GTurbo with 600mm FMIC gives 450nm @ 1700rpm at 20psi boost.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

              I'd recommend stainless or alluminised steel. if you do use mild steel be sure to have the inside of the tanks and baffles sandblasted. As for baffles, the flatter the tank the more you will need.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

                Originally posted by Graham View Post
                Wow.
                That's pretty good.Thanks a lot. What do I do for the gauge if the tank is taller than the original. Do I extend the wire float support.Or do I need to get another type.If so where. The tanks that I have all have the outlet in the top. I would like to put it in the side just up from the bottom with enough clearance so the screen does not rub . I can also incorporate the heater with this outlet. What do you think of the outlet and heater pipes plumbed through a removable panel with a gasket seal. This will be easier to make outside on a bench.
                Cheers.
                Graham.
                Graham.
                It is easier to seal a hole in the top of the fuel tank than one in the side of it.
                If you need to open the hatch, you don't need to check fuel levels if it is in the top.
                If your hatch is large enough, you can have all connections passing thru it.
                If you plan to use copper pipe for the Heating coil, please ensure it is braced to minimise metal fatigue and resultant coolant leakage into the fuel tank.

                Regards,
                Tony
                Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

                Current Vehicles in stable:
                '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
                '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
                '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

                Previous Vehicles:
                '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
                '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
                '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
                '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
                '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
                '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
                '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
                '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
                '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

                Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
                Adding images and/or documents to your posts

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

                  Here is how I did my pickup. Missing from photo is ss screen over pickup (centre pipe)

                  Another tip: try to place the pickup at the rear to gain full use of the tank without running out while climbing a hill a few ks from home.

                  http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3278/...eddee62ff0.jpg
                  Johnnojack
                  Senior Member
                  Last edited by Johnnojack; 27 January 2010, 08:40 PM.
                  Johnnojack
                  4WD Isuzu Jackaroo 3.1 200000km on WVO,(2020) 2 tank home built system 6 solenoids FPHE, heated filter fuel line and tank pickup for thicker oil. Mk. 9 version now and no changes planned as trouble free.
                  Mercedes W201 190D 1986 model: 2 tank system, bigger fuel line from tank, no heat exchanger, electric pump for diesel 22000km so far sigpic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

                    Thanks for the reply' s They have been a great help. I will put some pictures up when it is finished.
                    Graham.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Fuel Tank Construction.

                      And think how you will fill it, and tell as its getting full. A puddle beside the car is a good indicator, but there are better ways......
                      cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

                      Comment

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