Back to cutting edge....
I'm about to fit a twin coil helton unit for a trial on 'Roidio' along with replacing the primer separator and filter with an all in one CAV unit. My desision with this is mainly to prevent any HMP fats bloking my filter as a don't do any bio filtering out side the vehicles. My primer pump i've been suspecting of leaking air for a while thus hard starting Eg stall due to air.
Anybody want any things checked or tested while i do it?

I believ that water in WVO is most peoples issue and that the fleetguard type CAV elements are masking the true fault that lies in the oil dryness.
I hope that someone can do some tests to chech these theorys.

Cheers Nick.

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Cheers
Nick.

Roidio 2001 Holden Rodeo 4x4 2.8L TD. 2.5" Straight through exhaust sytem, heat exchanger shower system. 2" Body Lift,
And lots of fruit, B100 for 25,000 no problems.

Elsa 1983 Mercedes-Benz W123 300D. The Fastest Merc in Oz, Loving B100 Burgers

Why a twin Coil Nick? How are you going to set this Up?
I'm guessing you are going to use one side for the Bio and one side for your shower?
It would seem to me double heating the Bio would be overkill and may possibly not be a good thing for the Bio to be too hot before going to the IP on your car. I know some of them are better with cooler fuel rather than hot, don't recall which ones though.

I'll leave one side unused to start with (cant see any probs with that) and do some simple tests on it. if its good i'll then plumb the other coil up to my shower as a booster. Or i could even run fresh water through its own circuit of cups of tea while driving or a steam iron or hot foot spa or a jaccuzzi in the ute tray. The possibilities are endless
Cheers Nick.

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Cheers
Nick.

Roidio 2001 Holden Rodeo 4x4 2.8L TD. 2.5" Straight through exhaust sytem, heat exchanger shower system. 2" Body Lift,
And lots of fruit, B100 for 25,000 no problems.

Elsa 1983 Mercedes-Benz W123 300D. The Fastest Merc in Oz, Loving B100 Burgers

Helton Dual Coil Heat Exchanger test results are now available in this post

Regards,
Tony

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As a newbie its all cutting edge. I have been reaearching biodiesel now for about 4 months, on google, at classes, chatting and in this forum. For us newbies this info is really good. For you guys who have been doing it for awhile its old hat and boring. For us it is really exciting,cutting edge and scarey. How ever I see your point, have you tried a still! now theres somr rocket science.I appreciate the forums, Keep it up everyone I,m learning heaps Cheers Brenden

Not sure if this is cutting edge really, but I,ve been recovering methanol from my glycerin.
I've made a basic still out of a metal paint bucket with a lid that clips on.....
Anyway, I'll organize some pics, unless this is old hat, then I won't bother.

Volksdiesel,
Please post photos of your still for methanol recovery.
To make it easier to find, perhaps it should be in its own thread, suitably titled.

A post here, linking back to the new post, would be one way of keeping this thread up to date.

Regards,
Tony

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Cutting edge?

A couple of weeks ago, I cut the inside of my elbow on a sharp corner of a temporary bracket I had made while leaning (climbing, virtually) into the engine bay.

The bracket was covered with WVO and I didn't attend to the wound until later that night (8+ hours).

Needless to say, it infected quite nicely...

i say cutting edge as,(state of the art).
some of my ideas, for WVO,YES! filtered and dewatered to the best you can.
hi viscosity, does not like to atomize , leaves larger droplets,dont combust compltlely= residue. the fix, raise injection pressure, %10-20=smaller droplets. small drops expose more surface area to heat
also chamber temperature is not hot enough,the fix a thermostat that will raise coolant temps to at least 150C,275-300F hotter chamber will burn more of fuel drops and leave less coking,gumming residue.
make or modifiy thermostat, may as well have it adjustable.
NOW! water injection, i have it on 2 of my diesel vehicles that run on a blend of WVO, you need hi pressure for good atomization, and at least once twice a week,maybe when yuo are on a long trip, let it spray for 5minutes to steam clean manifolds and chambers, my cars always run better after, noticed the next morning the most,easy start,smooth run. of course you DO NOT drown the engine, hi-pressure fine spray. engine has to be HOT! and at speed. load it and work it.
now things get a little more interesting,you have to make up your mind foe engine modification,
any EGR has to go, thats it, pumping old soot into the intake of any engine is very poor technology,old fashioned,especially WVO soot,thick and gooey.
Catylitc convertor, DPFs ETC. do not like WVO soot,carbon parts and other rubbish, get rid of it. mileage much better, along with power increase.
the computors wont like the info, but im sure sombody will find a workable program, that will make it exceptable.

If you get this far, you will be quite satisfied by now.


This is for advanced students only!
it is well known in the engine community that the big emission culprit ,problem is Dreaded NOX ,Oxides of Ntirogen,.
would it not simpler( maybe not so simple), to eliminate 1 part Nitrogen from the air,N2O, converted into N1O, the space could add a lot more Oxygen increase power and reduce NOX to an almost nonexsitance product, fuel mileage doubled, save big money on emission control components, and zillion dollars of R&D.


Thx Ron

A follow up to above: these engines were designed and engineered for Diesel fuel ,not any type of alternative fuel, so to we have to make them compatible to what are needs are!

YES! that would be cutting edge.

Thx Ron