Hi all, just throwing together some good hits I'm finding in the research phase of my conversion. I thought I might get over my self and start contributing again. Hope this of benefit.
Thanks to Robert, Captain Echidna, Fitian, 98troopy ,Tony From West Oz, Steve-Kal, froggo for being inadvertently contributing to this post.
PRO's of Dual conversions
CON's of Dual conversions
Oil Filtering
Drying your oil
CAV Filters
(using B100 but still relevent)
Switching Valves
Pollak Valves -http://mypage.direct.ca/t/tsetse/vcimages/PollakGuts.JPG
Sirai L340
Heating
Heating of the oil is necessary to increase viscosity lowered to allow for proper atomisation of the fuel, otherwise incomplete combustion and carbon build up will ultimately damage the engine. It will also reduce the load on the Fuel Pump.
The engine is started on diesel, switched over to vegetable oil as soon as it is warmed up and switched back to diesel shortly before being switched off to ensure that no vegetable oil remains in the engine or fuel lines when it is started from cold again. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vegetable_oil_used_as_fuel)
FPHE (Flat Plate heat Exchangers)
FPHE are now standard componenets when considering a WVO or Dual setup conversion. They transfer the heat from the engines cooling system into the vege oil. The do this very efficiently and are compact and are very easy to install.
A vertical orientation is generally recommended with both intake port placed at the bottom allowing any air bubbles to flow up and out of the system.
Adding foam or insulation over the FPHE will increase its efficiency.
Hose-in-Hose heater
This concept allows for an oil hose to pass through a heated water hose.
I AM REOPENING THIS THREAD TO ALLOW FOR UPDATES PLEASE ADD YOUR COMMENTS AND I WILL INCORPORATE IN TO THE MAIN BODY.
Thanks to Robert, Captain Echidna, Fitian, 98troopy ,Tony From West Oz, Steve-Kal, froggo for being inadvertently contributing to this post.
PRO's of Dual conversions
- No chemicals kept around house (kids friendly)
- Reduced costs
- Great for long trips
- No excise, chemicals, heating, mixing, chemistry calculations.
- No bi products - Glycerine
- no ongoing processing - just filtering
- One off engine change over
CON's of Dual conversions
- Hassle of having to start-up and purge before you shut down with diesel/biodiesel (is it really a hassle - turbo timer?)
- There are studies showing that SVO is not so good long term for an engine used for short trips, stop/start driving etc in terms of cylinder coking etc (citations?)
- Hopeless for short trips - less than 20 klms.
- Hard starting if you forget to flush out.
- Needs two tanks, which often takes up space in car
- Manual process of conversion (unless you know Fitian)
- May not suit newer Comon Rail Injection type diesels (citation correction needed)
- Ongoing of filtering oil can hassle
Originally posted by 98troopy
View Post
Oil Filtering
- Time is on your side. Allow your oil to settle and you can recover 80-90 % of your oil with very little particles. Water will also settle out and will fall to the bottom.
- Pouring all of your oil together will allow all of you oil to settle together and you can potentially have 150 litre of oil on top that is easily recoverable. Rather than the manual handling nightmare of pouring 10 - 15 litre from the top of 20 litres drums.
- In summer your dregs may be even more reuseable, as some higher melting point fats\oils may melt at the higher ambient temp.
- Cold filtering will allow any solid oil particles to either fall to the bottom (before filtering) and not present while filtering. But will be slow.
- Heated filtering is quicker but can melt solid oils/fats that may resolidify in your fuel tank and cause blockages.
- 5 micron filter is a good starting point to filter good clean oil. They may clog over time and may need to be cleaned with heated oil to flush out/melt the oils that collect in the filter.
- There are upflow systems that allow for recovering of oil from the top of the drum, meaning the crud and water stays at the bottom as describere here - http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_use...ow_design.html
Originally posted by Tony From West Oz
View Post
Drying your oil
- Wet oil will damage you injector pump, valves, cylinder bore and fire deck.
- Visual inspection of oil will assist to deterimine if oil is dry but isn't the only test
- Clear oil generally is dry, cloudy oil generally is wet or starting to solidify. Further testing will help assist to determine possible water content of oil
- A quote from Tony From WA will assist here.
Originally posted by Tony From West Oz
View Post
CAV Filters
(using B100 but still relevent)
Originally posted by Steve-Kal
View Post
Pollak Valves -http://mypage.direct.ca/t/tsetse/vcimages/PollakGuts.JPG
- Made out of plastic
- 6 port
- inlet size is 3/8'' ( 9.5mm )
- Designed for ambient temps between -40°F and +180°F
- Evidence of failures at high temps
- Possibly leak between tanks (vege oil into Diesel tank)
- Valves are rated for fuel delivery system pressures to 65 psi
- Gasoline and Diesel Fuel systems only (per Catalogue)
- Failure causes no fuel to flow
Sirai L340
- Specifically designed for Heated WVO
- 3/4" ports ( 19mm )
- viton seal
- 3 port valves (2 needed)
- Temp rated to 130 Degrees
- Body Anodized aluminium
Heating
Heating of the oil is necessary to increase viscosity lowered to allow for proper atomisation of the fuel, otherwise incomplete combustion and carbon build up will ultimately damage the engine. It will also reduce the load on the Fuel Pump.
The engine is started on diesel, switched over to vegetable oil as soon as it is warmed up and switched back to diesel shortly before being switched off to ensure that no vegetable oil remains in the engine or fuel lines when it is started from cold again. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vegetable_oil_used_as_fuel)
FPHE (Flat Plate heat Exchangers)
FPHE are now standard componenets when considering a WVO or Dual setup conversion. They transfer the heat from the engines cooling system into the vege oil. The do this very efficiently and are compact and are very easy to install.
A vertical orientation is generally recommended with both intake port placed at the bottom allowing any air bubbles to flow up and out of the system.
Adding foam or insulation over the FPHE will increase its efficiency.
Originally posted by Fitian
View Post
This concept allows for an oil hose to pass through a heated water hose.
I AM REOPENING THIS THREAD TO ALLOW FOR UPDATES PLEASE ADD YOUR COMMENTS AND I WILL INCORPORATE IN TO THE MAIN BODY.