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  • Blending ULP/RUG

    Hi everyone,

    just been thinking about the 5-15% ULP that I blend into my wvo. Does blending the ULP help repel water trapped in the wvo?

    I suppose thinning the oil would allow the separate/free water particles to settle a bit easier but what about the suspended water? Given that petrol should repel water?

    Pity the HPT gives a false negative when blended. Not to mention the possible explosion/fire as the petrol fumes catch Not recommended.

    What do you think? Has anyone found any good info on the subject?

    God bless, froggo.
    HJ45 Landcruiser Troopy
    Home made 2 tank system
    Blending in main diesel tank
    SVO/WVO Converted 18/01/08
    http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_users/3667-hj45_troopy_conversion.html

  • #2
    Re: Blending ULP/RUG

    I gave up blending after seeing some of the results from that mihandra guy, the one with the mad max van from the states, I know hes a bit of a fruit loop but worth digesting.
    I have not had any dark drop out crud in my filters, but i cant say if it was from running oil/ulp or bio/ulp blends.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Blending ULP/RUG

      Originally posted by gilfish View Post
      I gave up blending after seeing some of the results from that mihandra guy, the one with the mad max van from the states, I know hes a bit of a fruit loop but worth digesting.
      WOW! If you put ANY faith in anything that wack job Jeffery Brooks says, You are a lot more easily led than I am. I don't know how anyone could put any faith in a thing that nut case said. He's certifiable! He believes every Veg forum on the net is part of a conspiracy " To thwart meaningful Dialouge on the blending of WVO and ULP as a fuel" just because they don't do away with their Bio and WVO sections the minute he " enlightens" them. He's accused every forum he's been on ( every one on the net!) of the same thing.
      You are being very generous calling him a fruitloop is all I can say. I think I rather spend the night looked in a room with a serieal murderer than that Phsyco. That guy will make the news one day for all the wrong reasons when he finally snaps.


      just been thinking about the 5-15% ULP that I blend into my wvo. Does blending the ULP help repel water trapped in the wvo?
      Why not remove the water before you blend so you don't have to worry about it?
      If You want to know what happens, you could set up a test and put the required amount of ULP in a coke bottle and test it. I never have but I'd pretty much put money on the fact it won't drop the water out.
      The first reason I'd guess this is because as far as I'm aware, ALL fuel these days contains ethanol wether they spec it or not. Some just has more than others. That will help blend the water and the petrol component with the oil. 2ndly, I dont think that 20% or less ULP is enough to cause precititation of the water. When suspended, the water would have to be coalesced in order to become large and heavy enough molecules to sink. I don't see that happening... BUT I could be very wrong.

      To me it's easier to start with dry fuel so you don't have to ponder the subject but the best bet if you want to know something is find out the facts by testing it for yourself.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Blending ULP/RUG

        Hi gilfish,
        I just blend the wvo in my two tank system, don't run a single tank blend. I have never had any issues with wvo and ulp 5-15% blend, no drop out either but I suppose it all comes back to how well we settle and filter our wvo.

        Thanks peter1,
        I don't have any issues with wet oil I'm just looking at does ULP help repel water in wvo. I have not done the test samples yet but will do and add them to my collection. Just trying to find info on the subject as nobody seems to know much about it.

        Thanks again for input and God bless, froggo.
        HJ45 Landcruiser Troopy
        Home made 2 tank system
        Blending in main diesel tank
        SVO/WVO Converted 18/01/08
        http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_users/3667-hj45_troopy_conversion.html

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Blending ULP/RUG

          Froggo,
          If you make any discoveries, please share them here. We are all looking for ways to make things simpler/easier.

          Tony
          Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

          Current Vehicles in stable:
          '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
          '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
          '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

          Previous Vehicles:
          '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
          '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
          '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
          '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
          '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
          '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
          '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
          '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
          '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

          Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
          Adding images and/or documents to your posts

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Blending ULP/RUG

            Hi All,
            I haven't checked into the forum for some time so thought that I should and expect that what I am about to say may bring down some criticism upon my head but here goes never the less....
            I am a little sceptical of the significance of water in oil, at least as far as my own blending goes over the last six years or so.
            I did bubble dry for the first year or so and did do the occasional HPT but have done no drying since.

            Firstly, the only IP failure that I have experienced was on a vehicle run solely on diesel (220000km). The failure was the result of corrosion in the IP. This did me a favour as it gave me the courage to get into WVO since dino had let me down.

            Secondly, after some 60000km+ on one vehicle and 85000km on another vehicle (single tank) all on WVO, they are both running as well as ever.

            The qualification on what I said is the quality of the oil. I only ever use good oil to start with as I'm lucky enough to be able to collect enough over my needs to be selective with what I blend with and what goes into the gloop drums. Any sign of water whatsoever and it gets dumped. I settle for a long time in IBCs (months at least).

            It is interesting that with concerns over possible oxidisation of wvo in storage that I haven't had to do anything to prevent this and the IBC of final filtered oil would have oil remnants in it that are years old. I have cold gravity filtered to 1mic from some years but more recently and especially in winter gone to 5mic.The MB course filter and Fleetguard elements get changed about every 15000km but don't really even need it then.

            I'm not saying that water isn't a problem for individuals as a result of the vehicle type, installation setup, oil quality, oil treatment techniques etc, just that it hasn't been a problem for me in my situation (touch wood)!
            Laurie

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Blending ULP/RUG

              Laurie,
              Good to hear from you again.
              It is always good to get long term use reports on WVO usage.
              Do you get much water in oil from your suppliers? If you often have water in the oil, then I would be talking with my supplier in an attempt to correct the issue.
              I also do not "dry" my oil, but the oil has been stored inside after coming from the fryer.
              The only time I got water in my oil was when the F&C shop had a leak from the roof, which dripped into the fryer overnight before they changed the oil. They let me know and I simply decanted the oil off the top and discarded the lower layer of oil and water.

              Regards,
              Tony
              Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

              Current Vehicles in stable:
              '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
              '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
              '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

              Previous Vehicles:
              '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
              '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
              '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
              '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
              '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
              '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
              '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
              '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
              '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

              Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
              Adding images and/or documents to your posts

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                Thanks Tony,
                I have to say that after this period of trouble free WVO motoring that i am perfectly relaxed about the whole concept and smile when I think back to my anxiety the first time a mate poured some WVO into my vehicle.
                The oil that I collect is almost always good quality and if it appeasr to contain any water or even a noitceable proportion of solids it goes straight into the gloop drums.
                Laurie

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                  I hope this isnt too far off the subject but 40 odd yrs ago i was a rev head in an MGA . Around this time i had built my own little still and was experimenting making all sorts of things from our fruit trees.
                  Anyway i decided to throw a gallon of distilled alcohol into around 1/4 tank of petrol in the MG and take it for a stoke,,,,,, there was a bit more poke, only at v.high revs, then we came to a halt and no restart.
                  After a lot of head scratching i realised that my alcohol would have had some water in it and mixes fine with the alcohol, but as soon as petrol was on the scene petol and alcohol were suddenly good friends and water was the odd one out.
                  All the water had separated and gone to the bottom of the tank.
                  As already advised try some coke bottle mixtures, especially with wet oil.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                    Originally posted by dagwill View Post
                    After a lot of head scratching i realised that my alcohol would have had some water in it and mixes fine with the alcohol, but as soon as petrol was on the scene petol and alcohol were suddenly good friends and water was the odd one out.
                    All the water had separated and gone to the bottom of the tank.
                    As already advised try some coke bottle mixtures, especially with wet oil.
                    I have done this many times and have proof of a very different result.
                    I buy E85 and dilute it 50% with water to seperate the petrol and alcohol so I can run the alky mix in my water injection system. The water and alky STAY in soloution and the petrol floats in a very definable pink layer on the top. I have clear drum sitting outside thats been mixed for a month now and sat undisturbed and there is only 2 layers in it. The water/ alky in a milky looking stage and the petrol.

                    As the petrol stays on top I can drain the eth and water from the bottom and when I get to the petrol that can either go in my oil to blend it or in the mower. Usually it's the latter because with the pain in the arse ethanol washed out of the petrol, I don't have problems with it absorbing water and upsetting the mixtures that cause running problems in the fixed jet engines. As I only get a little petrol this way, I also water wash the petrol I get for the mower and small engines to remove the alcohol and use the water in the injection system.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                      Originally posted by froggo View Post
                      Hi everyone,

                      just been thinking about the 5-15% ULP that I blend into my wvo. Does blending the ULP help repel water trapped in the wvo?

                      I suppose thinning the oil would allow the separate/free water particles to settle a bit easier but what about the suspended water? Given that petrol should repel water?

                      Pity the HPT gives a false negative when blended. Not to mention the possible explosion/fire as the petrol fumes catch Not recommended.

                      What do you think? Has anyone found any good info on the subject?

                      God bless, froggo.
                      To the best of my knowledge and experience, ULP can contribute water to your fuel, because it always has some water in it, as all commercial fuels have from condensation and storage. Most in ground fuel tanks always end up with water in them, know this from my days driving fuel tankers and road trains. Not unusual to drain your tankers after a trip to find up to 5+lt of water in the bottom of them.

                      Still can't understand why people want to use ULP as a blend, the most logical simple and best form of blend is either 10% dino or BD. The first thing I was told back in 1976 when setting off on this adventure, was never use petrol to thin veggie oil and since then have yet to see anyone blending with petrol that hasn't ended up with a stuffed engine or never ending problems. Yet everyone who uses dino or BD, never has a problem and our old cruiser now has just over 500000klms on SVO, using 10% BD or dino during Tas winters.

                      It's up to the individuals, but really it all boils down to logic, petrol is not designed for a diesel engine and has additives and flash points which are very detrimental to the internal operations of compression firing. No amount of apologetics or illogical crap can change those facts and when there is a compatible substance for blending that can be of benefit, that's it. Add some 2 stroke or ATF to your starter tank, use dino or BD if you blend and your engine will run better cleaner and longer without problems.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                        Originally posted by Alga View Post
                        To the best of my knowledge and experience, ULP can contribute water to your fuel, because it always has some water in it, as all commercial fuels have from condensation and storage. Most in ground fuel tanks always end up with water in them, know this from my days driving fuel tankers and road trains. Not unusual to drain your tankers after a trip to find up to 5+lt of water in the bottom of them.
                        I would expect you would also know that fuel tanks always have water in them and for this reason the pick up on tanks in servos always have to have a minimum amount of fuel in them and the pickups are not located on the buttom of the tanks but further up. I would also expect you would also know that there is a seperate bottom pickup for removal of said water so the level dosen't get to high.

                        If ULP had such Igh levels of water, how is it that Vehicles and other engines that use it don't have problems with it. Having come along from the days of carbys and points which you may be more familiar with than the modern computerised fuel injection systems, I can assure you they are not impervious to water and in fact are very sensative to it. If the water problem in petrol was as bad as you say, then why don't cars and small engines suffer the problems you talk about?
                        Also, if this water comes from condensation, how is it that only petrol tanks have the problem and not diesel tanks? Both fuels will float on water and both distribution channels have water seperators so how does condensation only occour with petrol and not Diesel ? I'm very interested to learn about this!


                        Still can't understand why people want to use ULP as a blend, the most logical simple and best form of blend is either 10% dino or BD.
                        Well there are many reasons actually.
                        The ability to thin the oil far more effectively is one. You can't thin something to a base standard using that viscosity to start with, all you do in this case is make the Diesel thick. There is no possible way to get down to the original target viscosity. The only way to achieve this is to start with a blending agent than is thinner than where you want to end up and convinently, petrol fits that bill very nicely. There is also the advantage of easier starting and I have also found the solvent effect of petrol on diesel fuel systems to be quite similar to that of bio.
                        There are also a LOT of other advantages to using petrol but I'll let you do your own research to enlighten yourself of them. If you enjoy learning as much as I do, Your going to have a ball with this one!


                        The first thing I was told back in 1976 when setting off on this adventure, was never use petrol to thin veggie oil and since then have yet to see anyone blending with petrol that hasn't ended up with a stuffed engine or never ending problems.
                        Yes, I have been told a lot of things that have proven to be absoloute bunk and rubbish in my veg oil experience as well. It's funny how most people have never actually tried what they disparage or even got their hands dirty but hold everything they hear from other people that have no hands on experience either as complete and utter gospel and not only that, will argue a point with people that have been doing it successfuly for years.
                        It's actualy pretty amusing once you get over the stupidity and ignorace of it!

                        It's true that we have never met so in that regard, your statement of never having met anyone that hadn't stuffed their engine or had never ending problems could, in a very specific way be considered the truth. To say that people who do blend stuff engines and do have never ending problems would however be a complete untruth and I can verify that with absoloute certainty. I'm getting close to 200K of blending miles now over 10 years and have yet to stuff an engine and the only time the bonnet gets lifted is to check the engine oil and water and while I'm at it I change the fuel filter about every 5th or so time. Other than that its put my blend in and go on the stock fuel system.

                        Yet everyone who uses dino or BD, never has a problem and our old cruiser now has just over 500000klms on SVO, using 10% BD or dino during Tas winters.
                        Well thats a demonstrably UNtrue statement.
                        I have seen loads of discussion about dropout and waxes being formed from using Dino in WVO and a simple search of veg oil forums would show exactly that. This problem has caused loads of people a lot of troubel and has been discussed here on many occasions as well. Perhaps this is something else you have not come into personal contact with like people that have had no trouble blending with ULP but of course thats not to say it hasn't happened and there is indisputable proof that it does. Blending with Bio also has it's problems just as blending with ULP will cause problems if it's not done right. The supposition that there is a perfect answer at all is also a flawed and ignorant statement which again can be proven rather than just theroised.

                        You would find starting to be even easier in your Tasmanian winters and your fuel far more low temprature tolerant if you used 10% ULP instead of Dino.

                        It's up to the individuals, but really it all boils down to logic, petrol is not designed for a diesel engine and has additives and flash points which are very detrimental to the internal operations of compression firing.
                        Since when did the 90% veg oil start getting designed for use in diesel engines and have additives put in for the running and flash points of IC engine use?
                        That statement is pretty much laughable when one is advocating the use of 90% Veg oil in a diesel engine. Yes, we have all heard the old thing about Rudolph designed his engine to run on peanut oil ( which is incidently flawed, he designed it to run on coal dust and switched to peanut oil) but there is no doubt that the vehicle any of us are driving was NOT designed to run on 90 or even 20% Veg oil. To then propose that a possible 10% additive in the form of petrol is going to be detrimental to the internal operations of and engine and has difference flash points etc is nothing short of illogical and irrelevant.

                        Engines were designed to run on and are in fact set up for diesel. They are not designed to run diesel with any other additive in the form of vegetable oil. To propose that it is illogical to run 90% veg with 10% petrol because the engine was not designed for it and the fuel charachistics are different and changing that 10% to the correct fuel makes the other 90% ok, really is a strect of ones imagination and about as illogical as it gets.
                        Pick the engine manufacturer of your choice and see if you can get their approval of one over the other. I think most people would already know the answer to that one.


                        No amount of apologetics or illogical crap can change those facts and when there is a compatible substance for blending that can be of benefit, that's it. Add some 2 stroke or ATF to your starter tank, use dino or BD if you blend and your engine will run better cleaner and longer without problems.
                        I agree. One cannot change the facts that running petrol has many advantages over running dino.
                        I believe it helps with compatibility as well. Engines are not timed or are set up for the oprtimal injection pressures of veg oil. The fact veg oil lights off later than diesel in a compression and the fact Petrol will light off much faster due to it's lower compression tolerance gives petrol a huge advantage over using dino for it's ability to bring the timing and compression pressures back much closer to that the engine is designed and set up for.
                        This is easily demonstrated by cold weather startups and increased performance which yes, I have got off my arse and gone and run back to back tests with. Mine showed both 5 and 10% blends of ULP to be superiour to any blend of Dino I tested up to 50% What did your tests show in your vehicle?
                        My engine ran far better with ULP of dino as the blending agent.

                        As for the 2 stroke and ATF, well certainly the ATF has been shown to have changed from what it was and no longer has the same favourable properties we would like. 2 stroke on the other hand seems to have a different opinion and it's value makes sense to me although I haven't tried it myself.

                        I have covered the running better and dismissed that idea as being flawed in my tests but as for cleaner and longer, cleaner and longer than what? A 90% ULP blend?
                        How do you define cleaner? again, I have tested and observed that due to what I believe is the ULP bringing the burning charasteristics of the oil back closer to that of Dino the engine is set up for, all my vehicles have run noticable cleaner as far as exhaust emissions when driving. I have also noticed that the ULP content cleans the fuel system that Veg and dino leave behind and that the petrol also seems to help with the presevation of some fuel lines the oil seems to dry out and make go brittle. Not all, but some I have used.

                        With your statement of longer, do you mean more mile or more time between services? If you mean between problems, I can't answer that because I have yet to ever have a problem related to my use of ULP in my blends. It's been 10 years now and if I have a problem tomorrow, it will still be less of a problem than changing oil or brake pads or even rust.

                        I'd like to hear about your personal experiences with blending ULP and the problems it has caused you.
                        I just can't verify anything you have said from my personal experiences, those document experiences of other or even in theroy or logic.
                        Always willing to learn though! :0)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                          Hi Peter1,

                          I would be interested in hearing your rules of thumb for blending. I run straight (filtered) WVO in my 300D, and the main problem I have is lack of flow through my primary filter (supercheap $5.95 inline) they seem to collapse on themselves and block at random. I will add that I run no FPE, and I believe my thermostat is currently stuck open (or missing!) as engine temps in winter hovered around 70 degrees.

                          Would 5% (E10 95 or 98???) reduce the viscosity by say 25%? 10% reduces viscosity by 50%?

                          I run WVO purely for the cost savings, and given my current 100% works well, I am interested in blending as little as possible, to increase filter life, and clean out the gunk in the fuel system, which I'm sure is accumulating.

                          Interested in your thoughts...

                          Cheers,

                          Fat80y

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                            I don't really have mnay rules for blending, it's pretty straightforward.

                            I had a 300D and used 5% Petrol in summer and 15% in the coldest time of winter and varied in between. I too in the end ran an unheated stock system with those filters. I had problems with them too collapsing even the fuel was well cleaned and dried. I now use Metal canistered filters that are OEM from Subaru cars. They work well even with the fuel consumption on my current 4.2 Turbo engine which is dialed up. I get very good life out of them and they don't cause a restriction in the fuel delivery till they are well blocked up. I also had a go at the CAV type filters and they are a pain in the arse and don't perform well either.

                            I don't know what the viscosity reduction is, I never measured it. It's a bit irrelevant in that you can't add 25% ulp if that's the viscosity number you are after. You get a reduction of whatever amount and it's a benefit and that's it. THe viscosity reduction may not be linear anyway. Perhaps you would get a certain percent with one oil and something different at another particular in different temps.

                            On a merc Viscosity is irrelevant. They have the strongest pumps in lift and internals made so if it flows through a hose a merc will pump it. I also thought my thermostat was missing but then found it did indeed have an operating unit installed but it was just a cold one. People say diesels should run hot, Not sure why this is. I left mine and had no problems.

                            As for gunk, IF you are filtering your oil correctly there should be no gunk at all except what was left over from the diesel. All my fuel tanks have always got cleaner on WVO, I have never experienced a buildup on any vehicle. IF you want to clean the fuel system. Go to bunnings and buy a bottle of Naptha from the paint solvents section. It's about $12 a litre and is what 99% of fuel and oil cleaner products are based on or the active ingredient. Throw in about 250 Ml and have some spare filters for when the gunk comes through which if leftover diesel deposits will be black.

                            That's about all the rules I have for blending. Clean dry fuel to start with 5-15% depending on time of year.
                            It's the most simple and straightforward way to use veg fuels

                            IF you want your merc to go a lot better, Look at the pump for where the wide open throttle screw is and take it out and pitch it. Did that on mine and nothing broke in years but they sure did go a damn site better. You can also wind the max fuel delivery screw up but you have to get the oil filter housing off to get to the back of the pump. Throttle stop screw removal gives good improvement with no effort.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Blending ULP/RUG

                              Originally posted by Fat80y View Post
                              Hi Peter1,

                              I would be interested in hearing your rules of thumb for blending. I run straight (filtered) WVO in my 300D, and the main problem I have is lack of flow through my primary filter (supercheap $5.95 inline) they seem to collapse on themselves and block at random. I will add that I run no FPE, and I believe my thermostat is currently stuck open (or missing!) as engine temps in winter hovered around 70 degrees.

                              SNIP

                              Cheers,

                              Fat80y
                              The biggest problem you have is using the Supercrap paper element fuel filters.
                              go to a filter specialist and get one of these:

                              This is the specified filter for the Mercedes 300D. The brass inserts are not essential and make it more expensive.
                              I have 3 of these (without brass inserts). One in use, one in a ziplok bag in the drivers door pocket and the third is in my workshop either awaiting cleaning, in the process of cleaning or clean on the shelf ready for when needed.

                              You can see when they are clogging, you can blow them back if necessary (by mouth) to get you a bit further and they can be cleaned, using dilute caustic solution to turn any used cooking oil into soap, then rinsed out and dried.

                              If you use the wing-nut style hose clamps, you don't even need a screwdriver to replace them.

                              Regards,
                              Tony
                              Attached Files
                              Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

                              Current Vehicles in stable:
                              '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
                              '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
                              '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

                              Previous Vehicles:
                              '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
                              '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
                              '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
                              '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
                              '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
                              '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
                              '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
                              '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
                              '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

                              Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
                              Adding images and/or documents to your posts

                              Comment

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