2.8 Hilux conversion

[bimbo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close bimbo]

Due to some fantastic help from members on here i now have a source of oil. I am now in a possition to start gathering the bits to convert my ute.

The ute is a 1990 2.8Ltr (toyota 3L) Toyota Hilux 4x4 with about 260,000k's. I drive about 15km's each way to and from work each day and longer trips on the weekend depending what is on. I feel that with the way fuel prices are that once converted that my ute will be used more for longer drives where we normally take my wifes commadore because it is more comfy.

The plan is to have a conversion that doesn't look 'out of place' in the engine bay or have a homemade type look to it when it is all finalised.

At this stage here is what i am planning. I am going to leave the fuel system for the diesel as standard for now and once i am confident the system works well i will switch to using the main tank for veg and a smaller tank somewhere for diesel - well probably bio.

Standard tank (diesel) -> OEM Filter -> Switching valve -> IP
20L drum in tray (WVO) -> HE -> CAV -> HE -> Switching valve -> IP

Now all that seems fairly standared to me from what i have read on here. Any manjor flaws yet?

A few questions. What size FPHE should i use? I am looking for the most cost effective way using FPHE's. I have noticed that 12plates are cheaper than 20's.
I would also like to heat the CAV using coolant filled copper coil or similar to stop any hard fats building up. If i did heat the CAV would i be able to ditch either of the FPHE?

I am also going to loop the return line from the IP. would it be best to use a similar switching valve as the inlet and loop back to just before the respective filters?

Any other help will be much appreciated
Cheers
James

[Fitian Was here Find all posts View Profile Close Fitian]

Re: 2.8 Hilux conversion

Standard tank (diesel) -> OEM Filter -> Switching valve -> IP
20L drum in tray (WVO) -> HE -> CAV -> HE -> Switching valve -> IP

Any other help will be much appreciated
Cheers
James

IMO it would be better having the large size FPHE before the wvo CAV filter and the small FPHE after the valve.

Good luck

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: 2.8 Hilux conversion

Hi Bimbo,

the idea of the fphe before the cav is to melt the fats so they don't clog the filter.

I would use a 30 fphe> cav> 20 fphe>. I don't see the point of cutting any corners because you will get your conversion money back real quick running wvo.

The cav filter should not block unless you get a real cold snap. When you have a sample of your wvo ready to use as fuel, put a bottle/cup of it in the fridge overnight to see if it still flows in the morning. This test will give you some idea of the temps your system can handle with the unheated cav.

A coolent or electric heater for your cav is not expensive to make but I would not replace either of the fphe's with it. I see the cav heater as an extra thing you can do to prevent problems,

God bless froggo.

[RODEONICK Too Busy To Bio. Find all posts View Profile Close RODEONICK]

Re: 2.8 Hilux conversion

maybe try a 30 plate before filter then a twin coil HE with one side before pollock and the other after.??

[bimbo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close bimbo]

Re: 2.8 Hilux conversion

Ok i will not worry about heating the CAV at this stage. My concern was that it will continually full of veg and if for some reason it chilled and blocked up but if i filter properly and i guess a little heat from under the bonnet it shouldn't be a problem.

Fitian,
What would be the advantage would there be putting a HE before or after the valve. I was planning to keep the distance from the valve to IP as short as possible and probably insulated. this distance is only around 30cm on my car. I was also going to have the HE as close to the valve as possible to limit heat loss but on the veg side to also limit purge time.
I'm just not sure if i could get the HE much closer than planned. Is there a way?

Cheers
James

[Fitian Was here Find all posts View Profile Close Fitian]

Re: 2.8 Hilux conversion

Fitian,
What would be the advantage would there be putting a HE before or after the valve. I was planning to keep the distance from the valve to IP as short as possible and probably insulated. this distance is only around 30cm on my car. I was also going to have the HE as close to the valve as possible to limit heat loss but on the veg side to also limit purge time.
I'm just not sure if i could get the HE much closer than planned. Is there a way?

Cheers
James

James,

I recommend installing a heat exchanger before the wvo filter to melt any fat build up. It makes the wvo flow easily throught the filter without putting any load on the fuel pump. I am not the only one recommending this ...

A heat exchanger before the veggie fuel filter is recommended to remove any fats which may accumulate there. Tony

I also recommend installing another "smaller" heat exchanger before the IP that shares both fuels. This to gradually warm up the IP and prepare it to receive heated wvo when you change over to avoid thermal shock. Also when you change over from wvo back to cold diesel/bio - the 2nd heat exchanger warms up the cold start up fuel before it enters the well heated IP again to avoid causing thermal shock.

You can use a single coil heat exchanger from "helton" before the IP to avoid long purge.

I understand everybody wants the shortest purge possible. One heat exchanger before the wvo filter will get the oil flowing but as I explained there is more to it.

[Nuddy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nuddy]

Re: 2.8 Hilux conversion

Due to some fantastic help from members on here i now have a source of oil. I am now in a possition to start gathering the bits to convert my ute.

The ute is a 1990 2.8Ltr (toyota 3L) Toyota Hilux 4x4 with about 260,000k's. I drive about 15km's each way to and from work each day and longer trips on the weekend depending what is on. I feel that with the way fuel prices are that once converted that my ute will be used more for longer drives where we normally take my wifes commadore because it is more comfy.

The plan is to have a conversion that doesn't look 'out of place' in the engine bay or have a homemade type look to it when it is all finalised.

At this stage here is what i am planning. I am going to leave the fuel system for the diesel as standard for now and once i am confident the system works well i will switch to using the main tank for veg and a smaller tank somewhere for diesel - well probably bio.

Standard tank (diesel) -> OEM Filter -> Switching valve -> IP
20L drum in tray (WVO) -> HE -> CAV -> HE -> Switching valve -> IP

Now all that seems fairly standared to me from what i have read on here. Any manjor flaws yet?

A few questions. What size FPHE should i use? I am looking for the most cost effective way using FPHE's. I have noticed that 12plates are cheaper than 20's.
I would also like to heat the CAV using coolant filled copper coil or similar to stop any hard fats building up. If i did heat the CAV would i be able to ditch either of the FPHE?

I am also going to loop the return line from the IP. would it be best to use a similar switching valve as the inlet and loop back to just before the respective filters?

Any other help will be much appreciated
Cheers
James

I would not recommend looping the return lines although many on the forum do.
I have just converted a 1990 Hilux Surf with a 3L 2.8 litre engine.
I left the diesel system alone and added the following:
2 x 20 litre plastic 'jerry cans' in the rear luggage compartment (station wagon) for veg, 12.5mm veg fuel line to Walbro FRB-5 'pusher pump', 12.5mm veg fuel line to 20 plate HE, 10mm veg fuel line to aftermarket CAV (without primer button as Walbro primes), 10mm veg fuel line to Pollak 6 port valve. Return from pump to Pollak, then deisel return back to diesel tank and veg return back to veg tank.
I will be posting pictures soon.

I have the same system on my troopy except that it has a 180 litre aftermarket rear tank for veg instead of the plastic 'jerry cans'.

I do not subscribe to the 'thermal shock' hypothesis.

I triple cold filter my oil as well as using long settling times (months) and think it is free of HMP fats and free water.

Send a PM if you want to know where I got the components.

Good luck with your conversion.