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| SVO Users A forum for people to discuss running their vehicles on Straight Vegetable Oil (SVO)/Waste Cooking Oil(WCO). |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
Thank you Bruce, I will check at K-Mart. Tony, I have found two types of switches with 6 points at Jay car. one ON/ON black square looks simillar to what's origianally in the car and the other was ON/OFF/ON which I ended up buying because it is a better make and seemed like a heavy duity even though it was cheaper than the black square switch. Tony and Bruce, Thank you for your support and your kind words. Cheers. Fitian |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion Quote:
Bruce and Tony should get all the credit for my car conversion. I would not have got anywhere without their help. I'll try to help you the best I can when you need any. Stay well Fitian |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
I just bought a marine fuel tank from K-mart (one like yours Bruce) I finished fitting it in the boot and took went for a drive and all went well. Today I had nothing but problems for some unknown reasons. 1. after driving for 10 kms I switched to wvo and noticed a great lose of power. 2. I stopped at the lights and the car was idling very rough and the engine stopped. What could be the cause of that please? Regards, Fitian |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
Hi Fitian I'm willing to bet that the breather valve was closed. This would create a vacuum in the plastic tank and would have stopped the fuel flow. Turn the screw on the filler cap anti-clockwise all the way to open it fully.
__________________ Cheers Bruce http://oztayls.blogspot.com/ 1976 W123 300D (3 litre 5-cyl NA diesel running on SVO since June 2006) 1982 W126 280SE (Sadly is For Sale) 1993 W124 300D (3 litre 6-cyl NA diesel - being converted to SVO) |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
Hello Bruce, Thanks for your reply. I thought that could be the cause of the power loss but I had the breather open like you mentioned. I switch back to the same jerry can that I tested my system with and bled the line but I still had the same problems. How do you bleed your system? Maybe I am doing something wrong or bleeding it the wrong way. What I do is ... switch the valve to wvo the loosen up the blocked banjo bolt then prime until I get soe oil out of the banjo bolt. Is that a wrong thing to do? The other thing is that I mixed the wvo with 1/3 of Biodiesel and things have got much better ever after. Could be that the lift pump is not coping ? Thanks for your help. Fitian |
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Hi Fitian Mmm, your problem could be one of the following. In order of the most likely they are: 1. The pick-up line inside your plastic tank will have a screen attached. It could be blocked with waxes/insoluble HMP fats. 2. You have air in your wvo system 3. Your filter is blocked 4. Your lift pump is not coping Start with the easiest and most likely cause, and remove the little screen fitting on the pick-up line. The next most likely occurance is that air has somehow been introduced to the system. You should have an airtight non-return type of fitting on your tank/fuel line connection. When you unplugged it, air could have got into the line. To bleed the veg system, switch your Pollak valve to "veg". Then loosen the small scew on top of the CAV filter. Suck on the screw. Do you get a mouthful of air or oil? Seriously, only do this if you know that there is only veg oil in your fuel line. Do NOT do this if you've added biodiesel!!! Unscrew the primer pump button, and pump until you hear a hissing sound and feel a resistance. Screw in the primer button and close the screw on the CAV tight.There should be no bubbles in the clear fuel line on the lift pump. Switch the Pollak back to diesel, and pump the primer until you see only diesel in the clear fuel line from the lift pump to the IP. Screw in the primer button. Again, check there are no bubbles in the clear fuel line. Start the car and test drive it. Your method of priming the diesel system is correct. However, I find it easier to loosen the big screw on the stock filter, ie. the one holding the cartridge on. You can tell when your system is primed from the hissing sound and the resistance of the primer button. If sloppy, there is still air in the system.
__________________ Cheers Bruce http://oztayls.blogspot.com/ 1976 W123 300D (3 litre 5-cyl NA diesel running on SVO since June 2006) 1982 W126 280SE (Sadly is For Sale) 1993 W124 300D (3 litre 6-cyl NA diesel - being converted to SVO) Last edited by bruceT; 26th October 2006 at 11:31 PM. |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
If adding 30% biodiesel helped, is it your filter in tank blocked with high melting temp fats, and the biodiesel has freed then up? Was it colder than when you filtered your oil, it doesl sound like my merc if I run into colder weather than the temp I filtered the oil at. It does sound like fuel starving, my merc behaves the same when fed veg oil when the car is cold. And the problem stages makes it more enjoyble when you get it sorted!
__________________ cheers Chris. 1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system. 1979 300D veg oil/ diesel blend for now. |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
Okay. Now I placed the marine tank back in the boot and I already removed this little filter which was at the end of the feed tube and the breather is undone anti clock wise all the way. with 100 veg oil and bleeding the system the way Bruce explained (I sucked air/oil using a clear hose with a square clean cut at the end of it and push it on top of the hole where the bolt is screwed on top of the CAV filter) and primed the veg line. Took the car for a drive and it loses power when about to stop at the light or turning in a round about. Driving 60,80 or 100 the car does not miss. I add just about 30 - 40 % biodiesel to the tank and noticed a great difference. The car runs great slow or fast. It feels like it is the oil is not thin enough so I think if I placed the Heat exchanger right before the lift pump the car will run on 100% veg oil with no dramas or maybe replace the heat exchanger with a bigger one like the one Bruce is using. or placing an additional heat exchanger before the lift pump. Captain, I guess if the car is cold then the engine will stop all together. I drive about 5 kms before I change over. I strongly believe that my problem is heating the oil. But I'll wait to hear from Bruce and maybe Tony can give some ideas too. Regards, Fitian |
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| Re: Mercedes 300D conversion
When my car is cold, the oil is also cold, and if I start on veg oil wih only what diesel is in the injector pump, it stalls, runs rough etc. It does sound like a cold injector pump, but as you say, see what Tony and Bruce say. With my conversion (a "Tony" configuration and I would put up pictures as soon as I work out how) I have some heating before the filter, and a lot before the injector pump, so the pump is pre heated even before I put veg oil through it. When you car has been running a while, is it better?
__________________ cheers Chris. 1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system. 1979 300D veg oil/ diesel blend for now. |
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