Hello Chris,

In my configuration, the HE is before the CAV filter and the Pollak valve is after both of them. So when I change over the cold oil in the cav is still cold. I think if I place another HE after the CAV the valve will be damaged (I could be wrong). But if I place a HE after the valve ... ummm .. both lines will go hot to the lift pump ! is it okay to warm up the diesel too?

Cheers,

Fitian

Hi Fitian

Yes, I agree with Capt E, you have a fuel starvation problem. Most likely your cartridge is blocking. Tony once mentioned that he had a problem with the Delphi brand cartridges plugging up quickly, so you might try swapping the cartridge with another brand like Fleetguard. I’ve had no problems with these.

Are you cold filtering at 10 micron or less, preferably 5? Cold filtering will ensure that you remove all the HMP fats, waxes and tallows that are solid at ambient temps.

When the car stops, did you notice if the CAV filter was hot? It should be. Moving the HE to before the IP won’t work too well as you will have cold oil going into the filter, and this will cause the filter to plug up even faster. If you don’t think you are getting enough heat to the IP, you will need to install another heater before the lift pump or IP. However, swap out the cartridge and try another brand first.

__________________
Cheers
Bruce
http://oztayls.blogspot.com/

1976 W123 300D (3 litre 5-cyl NA diesel running on SVO since June 2006)
1982 W126 280SE (Sadly is For Sale)
1993 W124 300D (3 litre 6-cyl NA diesel - being converted to SVO)

Thank you Bruce,

Do you have the contact for another CAV cartridge supplier please?

Warm regards,


Fitian

I do cold filter the oil and I use a 5 micron filter supplied by Tony. when the car stops the CAV filter is really hot. I am not sure if it get blocked because driving on high speed everything runs great. But I will keep an eye on the CAV.

Thanks Bruce for your support

Fitian

Hi Fitian

If your filter is hot, that's good. At high speed, your pump is working harder, so it has more power to pull the oil through the paper elements.

I get my filter cartridges from my local Cummins/Fleetguard service centre, but you could try other sources for other brands. Most outlets like Super Cheap, marine chandlers or diesel mechanics would probably have the 296 cartridge. They are very common.

__________________
Cheers
Bruce
http://oztayls.blogspot.com/

1976 W123 300D (3 litre 5-cyl NA diesel running on SVO since June 2006)
1982 W126 280SE (Sadly is For Sale)
1993 W124 300D (3 litre 6-cyl NA diesel - being converted to SVO)

Hi there... I'm in the middle of a 300D conversion and have decided to go with the Pollak 6 port valve instead of solenoids. My plumbing arrangement is identical to the Greasecar system. I'm attempting to use the top set of ports as "Solenoid A" and the bottom set as "Solenoid B" to allow for a flush of the system prior to shut down. Everything is well, except for the fact that the instructions that came with the valve do not contain simple (and critical) pieces of information such as "power to wire X results in Y." So, does anyone have insight regarding how I can wire the Pollak valve for this application? Thanks in advance!

Usually the Pollak valve comes with a plumbing and wiring diagram that is quite easy to follow.

PM your email address and I'll send you the diagram in pdf format.

__________________
Cheers
Bruce
http://oztayls.blogspot.com/

1976 W123 300D (3 litre 5-cyl NA diesel running on SVO since June 2006)
1982 W126 280SE (Sadly is For Sale)
1993 W124 300D (3 litre 6-cyl NA diesel - being converted to SVO)

Fintan it may be a good idea to check to see if the pipe leading into the IP is warm, if it is in a lot of breeze (and it may be when the car is moving) it may be worth insulating it. I heat the diesel also, Tony says some veg oil in it will help with it keeping it lubricating properties, but 300D injector pumps are lubricated with engine oil, not so much fuel oil, so it should not be a problem.

And Happyoil, I wired mine up, and blew through the pollack valve, then labeled which were diesel and which veg oil. before plumbing.

__________________
cheers
Chris.
1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system. 1979 300D veg oil/ diesel blend for now.

Okay, I think I should place a HE right before the IP and see what happens. I will also add 1 litre of veg oil to the diesel but I use biodiesel all the time. I guess it won't hurt adding some oil anyway.

The valve has one inlet open when not wired. You can simply use it for the diesel at least if anything goes wrong in the wiring the valve will go change back to diesel. Do you guys agree?

Fitian,
Your problems seem to be due to a fuel restriction in your veggie fuel system. Please check your veggie fuel lines from your tank to the filter and the Pollak valve.
Diluting the veggie with biodiesel makes the veggie flow better, so restriction makes less effect.
Due to the restriction, I think you are getting some air in the fuel lines, which are not a problem while using the fuel at highway speeds. When you slow down after highway speeds, the air in the system is not being passed thru the injectors and accumulates somewhere in the veggie system.
This is most likely what is causing your stalling and rough running at idle.

Re-check the clear fuel lines for air in the veggie entering the IP, as soon as you stop after a highway run.

Tony