Of course the other method is to change the injector nozzles and glow plugs so the car can properly spray and combust cold oil on startup. The (half an) elsbett kit is running well in the merc so far, starting is about as smooth as it was on diesel.
Mind you I think it cost me about 1/2 the cost of the car to do it......

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cheers
Chris.
1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.

i read this post with interest,as ive often wondered ,although my 2 tank with coolant HE before the filter [2h] has worked a treat for about 130,000ks

Qu. what is the ideal temp to offer fuel to the IP at ???
ive been thinking of adding a glow plug fuel heater between the filter and IP, so that the HE will do the bulk of heating while the GP heater gives both immeadiate and top up heating
after reading views of the actual injector transfering enough heat,once hot themselves, i would probably be wasteing my time
although if you ran a single tank system this would overcome the time lag of warm up time of 2 ks

I honestly believe that EVERY vehicle is differant with respect to how hot the Ip gets and the fuel itself. My rodeo is allways stone cold to touch where as the merc gets quite hot after 20 minutes of idling. I don't believe that there is any hard and fast rules for WVO heating or how hot something gets at a certain point. Trial and error and what that individual is comforatble with is the key. Hence the reason why non car folk should probable steer clear. I i think most will agree that to add more heat cant do any real harm??
Just some thoughts.

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Cheers
Nick.

Roidio 2001 Holden Rodeo 4x4 2.8L TD. 2.5" Straight through exhaust sytem, heat exchanger shower system. 2" Body Lift,
And lots of fruit, B100 for 25,000 no problems.

Elsa 1983 Mercedes-Benz W123 300D. The Fastest Merc in Oz, Loving B100 Burgers

The great thing about the 2 tank system is that we can start on diesel (or bio) and that means we can start with the fuel and the injector and the engine quite cold and still get good combustion right away.
Most SVO users go considerably more than 2km before switching over and many say I am risking damage by switching so soon. At least I am not starting from cold on SVO and I do not get any rough running or smoke.
I don't think I could achieve that on a single tank system.
I agree with Nick that with SVO more heat is better, the hotter we can get the oil the easier it is on anything and no matter how hot it is it still lubricates better than cold diesel.

If you have concerns about coking I would recommend looking at a very basic water injection kit, preferably home made -

These have proven carbon reducing properties in addition to increasing air density and therefore end compression, works especially well in hotter climates.

Some info http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/foru...2391054691/p/1

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David

1994 Merc C250D -110k diesel, 10k miles SVO twin tank

And remember,

"if you drive a car fast enough it will last you a lifetime"