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Thread: Drum pumps

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2010

    Re: Drum pumps

    I have a pump exactly the same too,problem is the shaft is aluminium and will eventually chew out if not careful.I've had to replace the saft seal before,the sizing of the seal OD and ID was the same as a hydraulic ram seal (cost around $3-$5),not like a normal single/double lip seal you see for oil seals,got this from a Bearing and Seal company.
    I made an adaptor and as 250 said
    I have removed the handle and fitted an adapter to enable it to be powered by a battery drill. It will move 200l. in around 7 minutes on low speed.
    Low speed is the key not high speed.
    Another good thing to do is get some course gauze/mesh and cover the hole and hose clamp it in place as you may suck up small nasties which may chop out the seal.
    I drilled some holes around the periphery at the bottom and bunged the bottom hole,the reason is so you have less chance of sucking and disturbing the crap on the bottom of a drum.
    Good luck with it.
    hope this info helps.

    96 Dual Cab Rodeo B100% since Jan 2011

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    New Zealand

    Re: Drum pumps

    Thanks for the thoughts.

    Speaking about holes in the bottom of the draw-tube. I bolted to one of the holes, a 3 -4" piece of steel that protrudes downwards. This keeps the draw-tube off the bottom of the drum, even if it gets withdrawn. So basically, that last few inches of fuel never comes out of the drum.

    Another thing I wanted to have was a drain valve in the drum. I decided that I wanted it at the lowest point and not directly under the pump-draw-tube either.
    Firstly I dented the the base of the drum from the inside using a big, long, heavy crowbar. With an almighty thump I got a dent which is where I welded my fitting.


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