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Thread: SVO upflow design with photos!

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    797

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Photos are still there on page 3. And I've put the diagram back on the first post.
    Sean

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    931

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Thanks to Panjit for letting me add onto his posting. I'm not saying my system is better than his, it's just different and users can pick up ideas from both of our systems. Photos are set as attachments and you might find this long text easier to follow if you view the attachments first.

    My system is primarily only a settling system. I have incorporated 5 micron filters just to see if it would make any difference, which I don't think they have but they are there to use when I fell like it.

    I pick up oil from the fish and chip shop in open topped 20 litre drums. They are sealed in the shop. I do pick up a lot of their waste lumpy bits which doesn't impress me but I don't see the point in complaining more than pointing out that I much prefer it when they use their filter pump to fill my drums as it leaves the chips and sardine remnants in their waste, not for me to pay for! The Matriach is not someone to mess with!!

    First I pour the oil through a course strainer made out of Termimesh, which is stainless steel mesh designed to keep termites out of houses. It is formed into a frame of an old wire basket and works very effectively. The scraps dry out nicely and get either buried in the garden or put out with house waste. If compressed they would burn nicely in a log fire no doubt.

    This wire basket sits over the top of a 200 litre open topped blue plastic barrel. The wire basket is held up by a small frame that stops it falling into the barrel.

    The oil flows through the termimesh and then into two Bunnings bags stretched across the top of the Blue drum. These Bunnings bags are supported by a stainless steel rack to ensure the full bags do not tear away from their straps.

    When fat builds up in these bags, it is scraped off with a kitchen scoop and disposed of into a hole in the garden for the worms to eat over time. Each month or so the Bunnings bags are removed and cleaned in glycerol and replaced. Sometimes they sneak into the family washing machine for a 50C wash. Given they cost $1 I'm not sure of the carbon footprint and economic analysis of this practice :-)

    The suction pickup of the pump is set about 200mm from the base of the Blue Drum and has a non return valve on the end of it. If necessary, I can clean out this Blue drum using a hand turned drum pump that sucks up most things and allows reprocessing of any collected large bits and fats that have slipped past the Bunnings bags.

    The settling process consists of two 200 litre steel drums laid over on their side. The oil is pumped into the bottom of Drum 1 and as the drum fills, it comes out the large top hole and through a length of thin wall black poly into the bottom bung of Drum 2. Only the cleanest oil comes out the top as the heavier gunk has settled. This gunk can be removed via a bung I have welded into the side (now it is tipped over it has become the base) of the steel drums. This drains back into the Bunnings bags for reprocessing.

    Draining crud is made easier by allowing air back into the tops of the drums via a non return valve on each drum. In case these non return valves leak under pump pressure, they are connected to a hose that feeds back into the Bunnings bags. Allowing the air to get back into the drums really speeds up the drain flow. I will often drain 10 litres of oil out of drum 1 and 5 out of drum 2 to ensure dirty oil is not mixed into the well settled oil when the pump is turned on.

    Once Drum 2 is full, the very clean oil flows out of the top bung and into the 1000 litre IBC that sits underneath the two 200 litre steel drums. The white PVC pipe goes right to the bottom of the IBC to try to stir up the oil in the IBC as little as possible. Any air that has been drawn into the steel drums is expelled via a small hole drilled in the PVC pipe just inside the top of the IBC and above the general oil level. This has dramatically reduced the bubbles coming out the bottom of this PVC pipe which tended to stir up the oil in the IBC. Thanks to Tony of West Oz for this suggestion.

    To fuel my Landcruiser, I wanted to draw only from the top of the oil in the IBC to obtain the cleanest Golden Fuel. I have achieved this by building a floating pickup made of a non return valve cable tied to a glass jar. There is 2 metres of lightweight black poly hose in the IBC that is connected to a PVC spear that goes to the bottom of the IBC. This way all the connections inside the IBC are under oil, reducing the chance of sucking air into the suction line. The glass jar is around 400mls in capacity and holds the pipe and pickup just nicely. This device has a length of string attached so I can fish it out of the small hole in the top of the IBC if necessary.

    I have one manifold for supply to the gear pump and one manifold on discharge. Manifolds are made of 20mm PVC reticulation pipe. Several supply and discharge options are available. I can suck from the Blue open top drum, or the clean oil from the IBC by changing valves around. I can pump out to the steel drums, to the filters or to two options for filling vehicles. One of these options has a bowser outlet that fits into the vehicle filler neck, and it has been plumbed with PVC pipe to the rear of the garage some 10 metres from the storage tanks so I can fill my car with ease and no unravelling of hoses. I simply lift the bowser handset and put it into the filler neck, then go turn on the pump and gaze with pride how easy it all is - now! Getting to this point has taken four years of development and refinement.

    I have incorporated a modified black poly non return valve and it is now a pressure release valve. I unscrewed the valve and replaced the light weight spring with a heavier one cut to the right size. This opens at about 40 psi which means I can let the bowser handset go and calmly move to switch off the pump when the tank is full. The excess oil bleeds through the pressure relief valve and back into the suction of the pump. Cross fingers no more overfills or burst hoses.

    Other points:
    All hoses, valves and pipes are 20mm.
    A fuel meter is fitted but not yet calibrated to be accurate.
    The pump is a gear pump driven by a 3/4 HP electric motor. Discharge is not exceptional - about 15 litres a minute. It's old and a bit noisy and may be running too fast for it be to be happy, but it's not wearing out with WVO!
    The pump has a pressure gauge.

    What would I change? I'd like to add a 80 psi electric pressure switch so I could turn off the mechanical pressure relief valve with it's valve in order to push higher pressure through the filters if necessary. It'd be handy to know that whatever happened, the electric motor would cut out if the pressures got too high.

    Does it work?
    Yep. Oil is excellent clarity. Apart from the Blue drum, contact with moisture laden air is minimised.

    My system has no procedure for drying the oil. I have recently pulled an injector after 50,000km since the injectors were replaced - (Engine has done 200k, injectors replaced at 150k, started using WVO at 130k). The injector sprayed as per normal and it's cracking pressure was the standard 3000 psi - 200 bar. An endoscope check inside the combustion chamber revealed minimal carbon and very clean cylinder bores. This is in a direct injection engine. Whatever I have been doing with the oil and my driving/purging techniques has been working for me - I've no need to change anything.

    See the attached images.

    Hope this is useful folks.

    Tim
    Last edited by Tim-HJ61; 16th November 2009 at 01:30 AM.
    Toyota Landcruiser 1988 HJ61 Manual Wagon
    12H-T turbo Direct Injection.
    Twin Tank setup runs on 100% WVO after warm up. 30 plate FPHE with 80C output, 12mm fuel lines
    Start up and shut down electric fuel pump feeds IP direct.
    Front 4WDSytstems Lokka, Rear ARB airlokka for quick escapes up sandhills. Performance GTurbo with 600mm FMIC gives 450nm @ 1700rpm at 20psi boost.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    931

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    One more attachment.
    Toyota Landcruiser 1988 HJ61 Manual Wagon
    12H-T turbo Direct Injection.
    Twin Tank setup runs on 100% WVO after warm up. 30 plate FPHE with 80C output, 12mm fuel lines
    Start up and shut down electric fuel pump feeds IP direct.
    Front 4WDSytstems Lokka, Rear ARB airlokka for quick escapes up sandhills. Performance GTurbo with 600mm FMIC gives 450nm @ 1700rpm at 20psi boost.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    931

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim-HJ61 View Post
    My system has no procedure for drying the oil. I have recently pulled an injector after 50,000km since the injectors were replaced - (Engine has done 200k, injectors replaced at 150k, started using WVO at 130k). The injector sprayed as per normal and it's cracking pressure was the standard 3000 psi - 200 bar. An endoscope check inside the combustion chamber revealed minimal carbon and very clean cylinder bores. This is in a direct injection engine. Whatever I have been doing with the oil and my driving/purging techniques has been working for me - I've no need to change anything.
    It's in the last paragraph Dave.
    Toyota Landcruiser 1988 HJ61 Manual Wagon
    12H-T turbo Direct Injection.
    Twin Tank setup runs on 100% WVO after warm up. 30 plate FPHE with 80C output, 12mm fuel lines
    Start up and shut down electric fuel pump feeds IP direct.
    Front 4WDSytstems Lokka, Rear ARB airlokka for quick escapes up sandhills. Performance GTurbo with 600mm FMIC gives 450nm @ 1700rpm at 20psi boost.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    S.E. QLD
    Posts
    4

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Some great set ups guys. I'm new to the game so they are a bit mind boggling at the moment but already got some tips on what to look for. Being in QLD the "moisture laden air" may be something I have to take into more consideration. Look forward to seeing and reading about other set ups and and adding my own when up and running.
    Thanks
    Troy

    $500 '84 hilux 2.4l
    30 plate H.E.
    Dual tank
    800km on wvo (and climbing!)

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    931

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Bumping this old but good thread.

    Any updates from any of the original participants?
    Or newcomers that have used the info in this thread?

    Tim

  7. #47
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    26

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Hello here is my little upflow set up.

    Since I live in a student share house I need something non permanent and small. I got some 60L blue plastic drums with sealing lids from gumtree (about $10 each I think). With these I have fitted some 15mm brass garden taps (not 1/2"). To fit these I drilled a 19mm hole with a spade bit into the plastic and using a 15mm backing nut on the tap inlet thread I threaded the tap into the blue plastic (cutting into it) and put the backing nut behind on tight. No sealant or gaskets and they don't leak. Note that the 15mm size of the tap doesn't apply to the threaded fittings (hence the 19mm hole).

    Using some cheap 12mm garden hose and some cheap plastic garden fittings with the taps I can make sealed connections between the drums. I put the oil into the top drum which has a shopping bag filter in it. This drum has a tap on the bottom which is piped through the top of the second drum to the bottom. On the second drums there are two taps one about 2/3 up for the up-flowed clean oil outlet and one on the bottom to drain the drum out. I collect the oil in the small yellow oil container.

    After this the oil from this is taken through a 5 micron bag filter and put into another blue drum for storage, this is done in the carport and not usually set up.

    The oil I have been getting lately is from a Thai restaurant and is generally very clean. When putting the dirty oil in the top I also chuck in a splash of ULP.


  8. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Lismore NSW
    Posts
    313

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Hi Doofus,

    I am a little confused, to me it looks like you are getting the water and stuff you don't want in your little drum on the ground, wouldn't you be better off putting the tap on the top off your elevated drum?
    I would also put a 90mm stormwater pipe (cheap as chips) in the guts of your first drum. Leave a 25mm gap between the pipe and the bottom of the drum. So every time you add oil, you pour it in the pipe, it gets forced down to the bottom, pushes clean oil out of the top tap (because your drum has to be full) running in your little blue drum on the ground.

    Just a thought. Happy oiling

    Jens
    1990 Toyota Hilux LN106 with ATG 2 tank system (sold after running 150.000 ks on mainly WVO)
    1993 Toyota 75 Series with 1 HZ engine both 75l factory tanks and a custom 170l under tray tank.
    200.000km 80% on bio 10% on WVO 10% on dino,

    "him who never made a mistake, made no discovery either"


  9. #49
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    26

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    The top drum has a bag filter in it that goes about halfway down, which I pour the oil into and let it drip through. That drum is used only as a kind of big sealed funnel to collect the oil form the bag filter, so you are right all water does go into the second drum. All the settling happens in the one on the ground. And that garden hose going from the top drum to the drum on the ground does go all the way to the bottom... perhaps I should include more pics to make it a little clearer.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    828

    Re: SVO upflow design with photos!

    Just a couple of observations - i used garden style taps early in the piece - you will find that the mechanism will gunk up in a short period of time - particularly if you leave a tap turned off for a while - you may find that the Vegoil will seal it down closed - i ended up replacing all of mine with ball valves for this reason.

    Also be careful of the seals in the lids of these drums - they are usually a cheap rubber seal and the WVO softens and destroys them very quickly and they fail just when you least expect it

    Craig
    Holden Suburban K2500 1998 6.5L Turbo GM engine
    210,000KMs (90,000 on new crate motor)

    Currently 2 tanks in and working - 90 litre BIO tank and main tank of 160L WVO

    30 plate FPHE in Engine bay and Helton Dual coil in rear
    Walbro FRB-5 pusher pumps x 2

    50,000KM on Veg and 10,000Km on B100

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