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| Using Biodiesel This is where to discuss any aspects of using biodiesel: performance, economy, vehicle types etc |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking Quote:
I think what you have got is a copy not an original CAV. It should work if it is made to specs though. Good luck
__________________ Fitian <>< |
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| Thanks Fitian, I have sorted the problems (i think). I disassembled and cleaned all parts. Reassembled using oil on the seals, this seemed to make a better seal. vacuum tested the unit and found that all the bolts blocking the other inlet and outlet holes and the bleeder hole on top were all leaking air substantially. Refitted them all with plumbers tape and retested. Vacuum tested ok, no leaks. Fitted to car and bled system through. Started car and drove it. No hiccups or power loss. The old OEM filter must have been pretty blocked (or the OEM housing leaking air as well) because the idle rpm on the car had been dropping off and now is back up to where it should be. I hope that the CAV filter ass'bly can take some vibration and so forth because I am taking it bush this weekend. Also dose anyone know how well standard plumbers teflon tape reacts with diesel and biodiesel? If it fails then it will be back to square one. Thanks again for everyones help Sam |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking Quote:
It should outlast your vehicle. |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking The threads on the CAV filter are tapered, if you have a paralell thread (not discussing the same topic in another thread silly) it wont seal as well as a tapered one, however it wasnt my problem.
__________________ cheers Chris. 1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system. |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking Sorry, My mistake.
__________________ cheers Chris. 1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system. |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking The CAV units should have parallel threads in the internal threads as they are also used with Banjo fittings. If adding hose barbs to the CAV's then you should use tapered thread to hose barb adaptors, to reduce the potential for leaks. As discussed, thread seal should be used with these. The original bolts should have been supplied with crush washers, which provide the seal between the filter housing and the bolt head. Thread seal should not be necessary. Regards, Tony Last edited by Tony From West Oz; 7th August 2008 at 11:47 PM. |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking maybe that goes to show that it is a cheap knock off then, the washers that are on it are thin aluminum washers, but i couldn't get the bolts tight enough to form a seal. They just kept leaking air, there was a visible gap on one side of the washer where it didn't sit flush with the bolt and housing. It was like it was sitting lop sided or something. Anyway we will see what the supplier says. Sam |
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| Re: CAV filter leaking Quote:
You still can use the aluminum washers "not the same old one" and get them to seal. Place a wet & dry sand paper on a flat surface and run the wash in round motion both sides. This will get the washer to have a smooth flat surface. Do not over tighten the bolt until the washer is deformed.
__________________ Fitian <>< |
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