plans to build copper heat exchange On my landcriuser hj60 [SVO] i replaced the fuel line between the lift pump and filter with a copper heat exchange. Works a treat First i removed the said fuel line.It has a banjo connection at each end i carefully measured the distance between the centres and angles relative to each other {the final copper replacement will bend or twist a little] Then to mitre 10 for some 1/2" copper some 3/4" copper and a couple of reducing Ts . Laying it side by side next to the old fuel line start to calculate the required lengths the 1/2" copper shoul be cut to match the length of alum. pipe between the fittings WE are going to replace the aluminium pipe between the banjo ends with copper as we dont want the surrounding water jacket to corrode through the existing alum. and send water into our fuel FRom the shoulder of the banjo fitting allow about 8mm of alum. pipe which will later slide inside 1/2" copper and be silver soldered, cut the old fuel line and put the two fittings with a little stub of pipe on each to one aside. Next calculat the length of our water jacket ,we want to end up with say 10 to 15mm of !/2" sticking out each end Cut 3/4" appropriate length and phos copper the reducing Ts together From the photo note position of drill bit A 1/2" drill must be run through here to remove a little seating shoulder so that the 1/2" pipe can be slipped all the way through Click on link below
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...odiesel006.jpg
Now where did i put those fittings i gotta clean this shed up somtime
slip them in to the copper and not forgetting the angles relative to each other silver solder them in place To finnish of take a couple of short bits of 1/2" phos copper them into the sides of the Ts to connect a coolant hose i built up a few dobs of phoscopper on the very ends these little bits so that when i clamped the hoses on they wouldnt slip of I hope the photos help I got so carried away i added another one between the filter and the IP Click on link below
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...odiesel008.jpg
good luck
PS i heard somone say but what if you have to run on dino for a while the hot fuel wont lubricate the IP as well. Fact 1% veg oil will increase lubricity of dino by 65% and that will be FAR beter than cold dino ,if worst comes to worst go into woolies and by a ltr of B&G canola oil
Copper is a catalyst for oxidation true but as i shut down on dino theres no bio or SVO in the exchange overnight
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...odiesel006.jpg
Now where did i put those fittings i gotta clean this shed up somtime
slip them in to the copper and not forgetting the angles relative to each other silver solder them in place To finnish of take a couple of short bits of 1/2" phos copper them into the sides of the Ts to connect a coolant hose i built up a few dobs of phoscopper on the very ends these little bits so that when i clamped the hoses on they wouldnt slip of I hope the photos help I got so carried away i added another one between the filter and the IP Click on link below
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...odiesel008.jpg
good luck
PS i heard somone say but what if you have to run on dino for a while the hot fuel wont lubricate the IP as well. Fact 1% veg oil will increase lubricity of dino by 65% and that will be FAR beter than cold dino ,if worst comes to worst go into woolies and by a ltr of B&G canola oil
Copper is a catalyst for oxidation true but as i shut down on dino theres no bio or SVO in the exchange overnight