Read this one after “Tony from west oz”. It is similar. OK I copied him, But this isn’t for assessment, so copying is ok??? I used a small diesel tank, as I need all the boot space I can get. Merc’s have a lift pump before the filter which makes conversion a bit more interesting.
Things I have done include
Turbo boost gauge for fuel pressure (reads suction as well a pressure), T'd into the feed line just before injector pump. Has a temp gauge (multimeter with temp function, $25 from Jaycar) attached to the T.
The heater was made from some 2" copper pipe, with coolant pipes (19mm) brazed to them. I used some of the pipe "unrolled" for the end caps, and someone asked why I didn't use welch plugs for end caps. Inside the pipe is about 1M of 8mm copper pipe, some coiled from one end to the other (main heat before injector pump) and a pre heat straight through twice, which goes before the filter to make sure nothing has solidified.
For the diesel fuel tank, I have used a jerry can, blocked up with plywood and wood under to make a flat floor for it to rest on, and a welded bracket going from the boot spring bracket to the handle. It used a piece of PVC to wedge two o rings around the copper pipe to seal the supply and return lines. On the other side I have installed a fuel gauge sender ("trico" $45 from auto pro, included the gauge) I needed to bend the mounting of the sender to put the pivot next to one edge of the tank to get enough room for the float to swing. The vent is left slightly unscrewed, and not over filled. Note carefully the empty point on the gauge as it goes down fast only being 20 litres.
Both guages (fuel pressure and diesel level) and rocker switch were mounted where the ashtray was. It is not possible to use the original ash tray (it has a bend in it) so I used acrylic and covered it in black vinyl to match the interior. As a rocker switch won’t change the pollak valve, I used it to turn on two relays to operate the valve.
Problems.
Gas solenoids- worked well on my Gemini I did before this, but if their outlet have a higher pressure on than their inlet, they open and allow fuel to go backwards through them. Changed for a pollak valve.
My diaphragm pump didn’t pump vegetable oil well, so I used the engine mounted lift pump for vegetable oil, and the diagram pump for diesel.
The main fuel gauge is a bit erratic on vegetable oil. It sometimes goes up slowly, drops slowly or stops for a while.
Insulation is required on the fuel hoses. On a cold day I increased the fuel temp by about 8 degrees by covering some of the fuel line in cloth.
Garden hose becomes stiff after being exposed to veg oil.
Of course not having a heated hose or tank, only liquid at room temp oils can be used.
Things I learnt.
A diagram is important. I couldn’t keep it all in my head what hooked up to what, so drawing how it is connected (not what it looked like) was a great help. Start mounting the big things before the small things. Refer to the diagram to keep the hoses short.
Work out exactly how many hose clamps and how much fuel line you will need, then double it. Then you will make half the return trips to the shops you would have.
Leave the 6mm hard fuel line on, and clamp the 8mm around it. Keeps it simpler than trying to adapt 6mm to 8mm without leaks.
Things I have done include
Turbo boost gauge for fuel pressure (reads suction as well a pressure), T'd into the feed line just before injector pump. Has a temp gauge (multimeter with temp function, $25 from Jaycar) attached to the T.
The heater was made from some 2" copper pipe, with coolant pipes (19mm) brazed to them. I used some of the pipe "unrolled" for the end caps, and someone asked why I didn't use welch plugs for end caps. Inside the pipe is about 1M of 8mm copper pipe, some coiled from one end to the other (main heat before injector pump) and a pre heat straight through twice, which goes before the filter to make sure nothing has solidified.
For the diesel fuel tank, I have used a jerry can, blocked up with plywood and wood under to make a flat floor for it to rest on, and a welded bracket going from the boot spring bracket to the handle. It used a piece of PVC to wedge two o rings around the copper pipe to seal the supply and return lines. On the other side I have installed a fuel gauge sender ("trico" $45 from auto pro, included the gauge) I needed to bend the mounting of the sender to put the pivot next to one edge of the tank to get enough room for the float to swing. The vent is left slightly unscrewed, and not over filled. Note carefully the empty point on the gauge as it goes down fast only being 20 litres.
Both guages (fuel pressure and diesel level) and rocker switch were mounted where the ashtray was. It is not possible to use the original ash tray (it has a bend in it) so I used acrylic and covered it in black vinyl to match the interior. As a rocker switch won’t change the pollak valve, I used it to turn on two relays to operate the valve.
Problems.
Gas solenoids- worked well on my Gemini I did before this, but if their outlet have a higher pressure on than their inlet, they open and allow fuel to go backwards through them. Changed for a pollak valve.
My diaphragm pump didn’t pump vegetable oil well, so I used the engine mounted lift pump for vegetable oil, and the diagram pump for diesel.
The main fuel gauge is a bit erratic on vegetable oil. It sometimes goes up slowly, drops slowly or stops for a while.
Insulation is required on the fuel hoses. On a cold day I increased the fuel temp by about 8 degrees by covering some of the fuel line in cloth.
Garden hose becomes stiff after being exposed to veg oil.
Of course not having a heated hose or tank, only liquid at room temp oils can be used.
Things I learnt.
A diagram is important. I couldn’t keep it all in my head what hooked up to what, so drawing how it is connected (not what it looked like) was a great help. Start mounting the big things before the small things. Refer to the diagram to keep the hoses short.
Work out exactly how many hose clamps and how much fuel line you will need, then double it. Then you will make half the return trips to the shops you would have.
Leave the 6mm hard fuel line on, and clamp the 8mm around it. Keeps it simpler than trying to adapt 6mm to 8mm without leaks.
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