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Another 300D conversion

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  • Another 300D conversion

    Read this one after “Tony from west oz”. It is similar. OK I copied him, But this isn’t for assessment, so copying is ok??? I used a small diesel tank, as I need all the boot space I can get. Merc’s have a lift pump before the filter which makes conversion a bit more interesting.
    Things I have done include
    Turbo boost gauge for fuel pressure (reads suction as well a pressure), T'd into the feed line just before injector pump. Has a temp gauge (multimeter with temp function, $25 from Jaycar) attached to the T.
    The heater was made from some 2" copper pipe, with coolant pipes (19mm) brazed to them. I used some of the pipe "unrolled" for the end caps, and someone asked why I didn't use welch plugs for end caps. Inside the pipe is about 1M of 8mm copper pipe, some coiled from one end to the other (main heat before injector pump) and a pre heat straight through twice, which goes before the filter to make sure nothing has solidified.
    For the diesel fuel tank, I have used a jerry can, blocked up with plywood and wood under to make a flat floor for it to rest on, and a welded bracket going from the boot spring bracket to the handle. It used a piece of PVC to wedge two o rings around the copper pipe to seal the supply and return lines. On the other side I have installed a fuel gauge sender ("trico" $45 from auto pro, included the gauge) I needed to bend the mounting of the sender to put the pivot next to one edge of the tank to get enough room for the float to swing. The vent is left slightly unscrewed, and not over filled. Note carefully the empty point on the gauge as it goes down fast only being 20 litres.

    Both guages (fuel pressure and diesel level) and rocker switch were mounted where the ashtray was. It is not possible to use the original ash tray (it has a bend in it) so I used acrylic and covered it in black vinyl to match the interior. As a rocker switch won’t change the pollak valve, I used it to turn on two relays to operate the valve.

    Problems.
    Gas solenoids- worked well on my Gemini I did before this, but if their outlet have a higher pressure on than their inlet, they open and allow fuel to go backwards through them. Changed for a pollak valve.
    My diaphragm pump didn’t pump vegetable oil well, so I used the engine mounted lift pump for vegetable oil, and the diagram pump for diesel.
    The main fuel gauge is a bit erratic on vegetable oil. It sometimes goes up slowly, drops slowly or stops for a while.
    Insulation is required on the fuel hoses. On a cold day I increased the fuel temp by about 8 degrees by covering some of the fuel line in cloth.
    Garden hose becomes stiff after being exposed to veg oil.
    Of course not having a heated hose or tank, only liquid at room temp oils can be used.

    Things I learnt.
    A diagram is important. I couldn’t keep it all in my head what hooked up to what, so drawing how it is connected (not what it looked like) was a great help. Start mounting the big things before the small things. Refer to the diagram to keep the hoses short.
    Work out exactly how many hose clamps and how much fuel line you will need, then double it. Then you will make half the return trips to the shops you would have.
    Leave the 6mm hard fuel line on, and clamp the 8mm around it. Keeps it simpler than trying to adapt 6mm to 8mm without leaks.
    cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

  • #2
    Re: Another 300D conversion

    Cap'n,

    It's a good looking conversion! I'm interested in your pressure gauge and temp gauge setup. Can you explain it further? How is the pressure gauge and the temp gauge both attached to the 'T'? Did you buy it all as one unit? Can you see both the pressure gauge and temp gauge in the cabin?

    Cheers

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    • #3
      Re: Another 300D conversion

      The T is a brass T with the temperature guage (which came with the jaycar multimeter) taped to the outside, which seems to change quite quickly. The fuel passes straight though with the turbo guage for checking pressure. I know on the guage where the engine stops (quite a way on vaccum) and where it sits normaly. The multimeter is on extended leads to reach into the cabin, and the guage is in the centre console.
      The temperature guage is mainly so I get a feel for where the temperature is, which is about 29-40 degrees, which is a bit cool. I have added a copper pipe with coolant silver soldered next to the 1/2 inch copper fuel hose to preheat the oil, but I am yet to see what effect this has on the temperature.
      cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Another 300D conversion

        Chris,

        I went to 'Supercheap Auto' today to buy a boost gauge. They were $50 and a tiny plastic 'T' was included in the pack. The man in the shop didn't think it would work in liquid pressure applications, only air. How did you get around this? Did you attach it to the brass 'T' that you got at Jaycar with the multimeter?? Sorry, these are probably a dumb question but I'm rather confused.

        Cheers

        Bryan

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        • #5
          Re: Another 300D conversion

          The boost gauge will work with any fluid, including air, water, diesel and veggie oil. The air lines supplied are usually a capillary (=tiny tube inside) and I have replaced the one supplied with mine with a 2.5mm air line nylon pipe. I used adaptors to mate with the gauge connection. I adapted from this air line to the fuel hose using fuel line clamped outside the air line and joined to a plastic or brass tee, to suit the fuel line in use.

          The only issue I have, is that I have no air in the pipe going to the gauge, hence my gauge needle flickers severely at low RPM. It is fine once above 1000 RPM.
          Tony
          Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

          Current Vehicles in stable:
          '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
          '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
          '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

          Previous Vehicles:
          '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
          '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
          '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
          '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
          '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
          '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
          '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
          '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
          '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

          Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
          Adding images and/or documents to your posts

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Another 300D conversion

            Yes I ditched to plastic T, and used the brass T. The multimeter probe goes on the outside of the T under tape and insulation. The T has all three tails with fuel hose. I went into a parts shop (we dont have asupercheap, I went autppro) and said "I want to connect this to this" holding up the thin plactic tube from the guage and some fuel hose. they brought out an orange box full of plumbing bits, and removed quite a bit of money from the wallet. I didnt mention what I was using it for. There seems to be air still trapped in my guage, and it works OK.
            cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Another 300D conversion

              I too converted a 300te but have had problems with the polyethelene tube melting, this engine bay gets alot hotter than my old ford did. does any one have any suggestions of what I coulsd use for the fuel lines?

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Another 300D conversion

                I used fuel hose (the black stuff). If it is the clear stuff, I dont think it handles any heat too well (which I have expirenced), but it is god for chasing air leaks.
                cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

                Comment

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