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  • primer pump?

    My Hilux had 2 fuel filters connected in series. The original (with primer pump on top) plus a newer glass bowl-type filter (a previous owner set this up). The diaghram on the primer pump developed a tiny hole and caused the fuel system to suck air so I've removed that filter (it was an epic to find the source of the air leak as the primer is a sealed unit). I'm using a little in-line electric facet pump to prime now when needed but don't want to leave this in place permanently.
    The obvious solution is to buy another original filter housing with primer pump and instal again in series. BUT - it strikes me that I'm wasting cash by replacing 2 fuel filters each time. And if I could find a hand-pump primer pump to put in the line I'll be able to just run the glass bowl filter and prime it when needed with the hand pump.
    I've asked around the spare parts shops but haven't found anything. Closest was a RACOR complete filter housing assembly with glass bowl and hand primer pump for about $140 but the filters to fit this are $35 each whereas the CAV-style filters to suit my existing glass bowl filter are $7.
    My question is - does anyone know of a hand operated primer pump (maybe for a truck or boat application?) that can be mounted beside my fuel filter?
    Cheers,
    Lucas

  • #2
    Re: primer pump?

    What about those in line hand pump rubber bulbs as found on boat outboard motor fuel sytems, would that do the job?
    Peter

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    • #3
      Re: primer pump?

      I'm not sure if they'd have the suction to pull fuel all the way up the fuel line from the tank? Usually it's a short run from tank to outboard but if I can't find anything else I might try one.

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      • #4
        Re: primer pump?

        Lucas, if you still have the old Hilux filter with the top primer pump, do not throw it away. I have had two Toyotas, Hiace and Hilux, where the same priming problem developed. In both cases it was the hose going from the filter housing to the injector that was the problem. The hose gets old and will allow some air to bleed past. You can fix the problem by taking off the factory hose clamps and putting on some hose clamps that you can tighten with a screwdriver.

        And yes, the first time I ran into the problem I thought it was the diaphram too. I purchased another pump from a wreckers and the same problem existed. I went back and complained and they gave me another pump. Same problem, at that point I figured I better try something else. All it needed was some decent hose clamps.

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        • #5
          Re: primer pump?

          What about something like THIS or THIS?
          Mazda's Secret Service motto: "Tell 'em nothing, charge 'em double".

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          • #6
            Re: primer pump?

            Thanks Terry but the hoses were the first thing I replaced when I started having problems. I'm pretty sure it was the primer on the original filter because when i removed the assembly (and just ran hoses direct from other filter to injector pump) the engine started running normally again.

            Gunner - those filter assemblies are just what I'm after - do you know what the differtence between "slant-type" primer pump and "button-type" is? I assume button is a bit like what was on there originally and perhaps slant is like a plunger style primer pump?
            Cheers
            Lucas

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            • #7
              Re: primer pump?

              I dont think outboard primer bulbs would work well.
              I had used an outboard fuel priming bulb (and tank) on a holden red motor (in a boat). The plastic balls that make up the valves deformed and stopped all flow at full throttle. After a few minutes the returned to normal, so the engine would idle again. After spending hours working this out, I would use them on outboards, but not much else! I think the fuel flow was too great for the balls.
              Good to see creative thinking though.
              Chris
              cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

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              • #8
                Re: primer pump?

                Originally posted by Lucas
                Gunner - those filter assemblies are just what I'm after - do you know what the difference between "slant-type" primer pump and "button-type" is? I assume button is a bit like what was on there originally and perhaps slant is like a plunger style primer pump?
                Cheers
                Lucas
                The obvious difference is the $30 in price!
                I can't see too much in the pics, so it's hard to spot if the Button type is a black plastic button that operates a diaphram, or if it's a flexible rubber dome (like on a Victa lawn mower). Best bet is to ask the seller a question. He also sells from time to time a dual unit that has the same mounting bolt pattern as the singles, the dual parts being a water sedimenter and a fuel filter with primer.
                Mazda's Secret Service motto: "Tell 'em nothing, charge 'em double".

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                • #9
                  Re: primer pump?

                  cheers gunner - I've put a question in re the difference in types. Do you reckon a seperate sedimenter is neccessary? I'd always thought the glass bowl would show up any water that I could just drain by unscrewing the drain plug at the bottom?

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                  • #10
                    Re: primer pump?

                    Probably a bit late but he is my two bobs worth.

                    CAV filters are the way to go http://www.bareco.com.au/files/filters/un7.htm

                    I got a replacement CAV filter complete with a primer pump for $130 from BJ diesels at Dandenong as the primer pump on my 20 year Daihatsu will not work. Expensive, not hard to install and brand new. Only need to fit new hose barbs and hose.

                    In terms of primary and secondary filter set ups I have an MF135 Perkins tractor and they are fitted with a primary and secondary CAV filter while the industrial Perkins motor is supplied with on a single filter. Not even Perkins are able to decide whether a secondary filter is really necessary. The more filtration and frequency of filter replacement however is usually the better.

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                    • #11
                      Re: primer pump?

                      Hi All,

                      I run on B100 and have been having the same problems with filter top primer pumps. Have had 2 CAV filter units with primer pumps start sucking air. Figure the diaphragms must be natural rubber and the bio is eating them over time.

                      I've just installed a hand priming bulb as discussed, bought from my local motor factors. Its natural rubber so will degrade over time but they'tre much cheaper to replace than a whole filter unit! Its not as efficient as a filter top primer, but still pulls bio from the tank no prob. Annoyingly though, the one I have doesn't seem to be of ideal quality and sucks air when pumping so I'm on the look out for a better quality one. Would really like to find some made of a bio proof material. Anyone come across one?

                      I too have a little Facet Posi Flow pump that I'm planning to install permanently, not just for priming but for cycling fuel though my dieseltherm fuel heater and injector line heater for a while before starting through the winter to aviod mixing my bio with petro diesel.

                      I have a Mark one D22 Nissan Navara (TD25Ti) engine with a Zexel copy of a Bosch VE rotary manual Injector Pump. My question is, is it safe to leave the Facet pump installed and operational permanently (rated at 1.5 to 4 PSI). Aside from its benefits in winterising the truck, I'm going to do a twin tank convert eventaully so figure this would be good to have when pumping SVO.
                      The Facet doesn't have positive shut off so will allow fuel to be pulled through it, so provided the pressure isn't too much for the pump built into the IP inlet, will the IP still happily pull fuel through the pump if it needs more without causing restriction and stress on the IP?

                      I figure I could switch the Facet off when running if its pressure is too much for the IP, in which case would the IP still pull fuel through it happily without restriction / stress?

                      I've read reports that these Facets are not ideal for SVO, but all the recommended alternatives are mega bucks.

                      Having already had my IP rebuilt once I'm nervous about trashing it a second time!

                      Any advice and experience greatly received.

                      Cheers,

                      Phil

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