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  • Metal 3 way valve??

    I guys, the conversion on the Gemini is nearing completion. (damn holidays and the wife 'needing' jobs done has got a little in the way)

    I am looking and different options for switching between fuels. There seems to be some people saying that they plastic pollack valves can be a little unreliable.

    I have found these on ebay. 330256045542 (search for that number)

    Has anyone used this type of valve?? you would think that being metal if it would handle the heat a little better.....

    Has any one had any experience??

    Thanks again

  • #2
    Re: Metal 3 way valve??

    "genuine" pollack valves seem ok, there was an ebay person selling pollack valves but had in the description "if not availible a replacement one will be supplied" Needles to say they were copies made from cheap plastic that failed often.

    If you really wanted to go for metal, gas conversion fuel shutoff solenoids could be used (I used them on my gemini conversion)

    I would say though that if you wanted 2 of them (one for your return line, and one for the feed line, at $300 AU the pollack would be better value for money.
    cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

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    • #3
      Re: Metal 3 way valve??

      These should be fine.

      Make sure you know the port size, not just the thread or pipe size that is screwed into it. If it is only 8mm for example, why change from the Pollack? apart from getting away from the plastic contstruction.

      There are many options in the hydraulics industry. Berendsons for one are an Australian supplier.

      Search this forum for solenoid valve and you'll find postings such as:

      http://www.biofuelsforum.com/classif...light=solenoid
      http://www.biofuelsforum.com/classif...light=solenoid
      http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_use...light=solenoid
      http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_use...light=solenoid

      Many people worldwide use the Pollack with success and there are no, or a tiny number, of reported failures. The genuine ones are reliable and offer 6 ports = 2 x 3ports and are excellent value for money.

      Separating out your valves into two separate 3 port valves, or running separate Pollacks, allows you to delay the purge on shutdown so you don't dump the contents of your IP into the diesel tank. Doing this may increase the growth of algae, and will dilute the diesel. this may not be a problem for you.

      http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_use...broken+pollack


      http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_use...broken+pollack
      Broken non genuine Pollak valves

      Those are my broken Pollacks so I have every reason to bag them. But I don't, as I was supplied fake ones. Genuine is fine, but they are rated to 80°C max.

      Tim
      Toyota Landcruiser 1988 HJ61 Manual Wagon
      12H-T turbo Direct Injection.
      Twin Tank setup runs on 100% WVO after warm up. 30 plate FPHE with 80°C output, 12mm fuel lines
      Start up and shut down electric fuel pump feeds IP direct.
      Front 4WDSytstems Lokka, Rear ARB airlokka for quick escapes up sandhills. Performance GTurbo with 600mm FMIC gives 450nm @ 1700rpm at 20psi boost.

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      • #4
        Re: Metal 3 way valve??

        For a Gemini you could use these. These are solenoids from dead LPG cars. I got them at wreckers for a few dollars each. You would need 4 (not all linked like mine) Sure they will have more connections than 2 Pollacks but at least the barbs are brass and not plastic and heat does them no harm. They will give plenty of flow for a gemini motor, (plenty for my 3.1 litre motor). I have not had one fail in 45,000km
        Johnnojack
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Johnnojack; 31 July 2008, 08:51 PM.
        Johnnojack
        4WD Isuzu Jackaroo 3.1 200000km on WVO,(2020) 2 tank home built system 6 solenoids FPHE, heated filter fuel line and tank pickup for thicker oil. Mk. 9 version now and no changes planned as trouble free.
        Mercedes W201 190D 1986 model: 2 tank system, bigger fuel line from tank, no heat exchanger, electric pump for diesel 22000km so far sigpic

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        • #5
          Re: Metal 3 way valve??

          I have done 35,000 km on a genuine Pollak valve with no trouble so far. My oil does get well above 80 degrees C but is not that hot when switching.
          I have not heard of any failures of genuine pollaks so you might want to use something else for many reasons but not for improved reliability. You can't improve on 100%.
          We have asked here before for any failure reports on genuine pollaks but have received none.

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          • #6
            Re: Metal 3 way valve??

            Thanks again guys, As always you have come through with a wealth of knowledge and experience.

            I kinda like johnnojacks idea of building one yourself. I can go to the wreckers and get these valve for next to nothing. Then if I cant set this system to work, I know that a genuine pollack will do the job.

            Thanks again

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            • #7
              Re: Metal 3 way valve??

              I believe that I did post that my genuine Pollak failed after 2 years in operation, causing start fuel to be sent to my veggie tank or vice versa. I can't recall when and don't have time to search ATM. That is one of 3 I have installed in cars here. It could be worked out as 1 failure in 8 Pollak service years, based on the time each has been in service and the length of service of each. This is a very small sample and is not representative fo the Biofuels Forum community experience with these valves.

              The price of a Pollak is not $300 either, at last purchase they were still under $100 plus freight from Melbourne.
              Contact "Paul Griffiths" <paulgriffiths@narva.com.au> for current price and availability information.

              Regards,
              Tony
              Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

              Current Vehicles in stable:
              '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
              '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
              '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

              Previous Vehicles:
              '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
              '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
              '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
              '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
              '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
              '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
              '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
              '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
              '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

              Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
              Adding images and/or documents to your posts

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              • #8
                Re: Metal 3 way valve??

                And for the newbies searching this post, gas valves work turning off flow in one direction. On the other direction they act as one way valves, so if you opt pressure on their outlets, they leak backwards. This is mainly a problem if used in cars with lift pumps, in cars without lift pumps are generally ok. Its what I found anyway when I tried them in my merc.
                cheers<BR>Chris.<BR>1990 landcruiser 80, 1HD-T two tank, copper pipe HE+ 20 plate FPHE, toyota solenoids and filters. 1978 300D, elsbett one tank system.<BR>

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