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oily
15th August 2006, 10:48 PM
:rolleyes: The kits have been modified so that the methanol is now mixed with lids attached to make it even safer , the kits are working well, the instructions haven't needed changes only a few spelling mistakes!!!!
if you need more info email me. I have included a description and a link for photos
Thanks Oily
---------------------------------------------------------------------The Cool Fuel kit comes with full simple instructions and all the gear like pumps ,variable speed mixing stirrer,washing unit,aerating and pump ,digital scales,sieves,safety masks,heating ring with hose and regulator and measuring equipment with full email support to make 70 to 140 lts Bio Fuel a week, all is needed is the oil and chemicals. This kit is a low $1450

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Made from recycled 100LB gas cylinders which are made from high grade steel, this kit is very compact and has been tested to make high grade bio diesel using a special designed mixer . mixing of methanol is done in containers with lids The equipment that comes with the kit, includes-
Complete instruction manual which is easy to follow,
1 5ml measure
1 10ml measure
Full face safety shield
Electric drill
Rotary pump @30ltr per min with Bio ,20mm hoses inlet and outlet
High power electric variable speed mixer with attachment to reactor
Oil sieve and reactor attachment
Thermometer 0- 100 deg c
1x20 ltr plastic methanol mixer with closed lid
1x 10 ltr plastic pail
1 off 100ltr quality steel reactor with round bottom
1 off 100ltr steel tank and gate valve for washing
Primas Gas heating ring , regulator and hose
Water mist spray attachment
Aerator with hose and electric air pump
Digital scales
44 gal cast iron manual drum pump with hose
---------------------------------------


All that is needed is the chemicals and the oil-- full email back up if you get into trouble!!!!
delivery time is 2-3 weeks 20 % deposit with order
for photo of kit
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n63/surfsup_06/coolfuelkit.jpg (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n63/surfsup_06/coolfuelkit.jpg)

dot
23rd August 2006, 04:38 PM
Hi Oily
i am very interested in your Cool Fuel Kit
I have been searching for weeks to buy a kit
Thanks
Dot

:rolleyes: The kits have been modified so that the methanol is now mixed with lids attached to make it even safer , the kits are working well, the instructions haven't needed changes only a few spelling mistakes!!!!
if you need more info email me. I have included a description and a link for photos
Thanks Oily
---------------------------------------------------------------------The Cool Fuel kit comes with full simple instructions and all the gear like pumps ,variable speed mixing stirrer,washing unit,aerating and pump ,digital scales,sieves,safety masks,heating ring with hose and regulator and measuring equipment with full email support to make 70 to 140 lts Bio Fuel a week, all is needed is the oil and chemicals. This kit is a low $1450

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Made from recycled 100LB gas cylinders which are made from high grade steel, this kit is very compact and has been tested to make high grade bio diesel using a special designed mixer . mixing of methanol is done in containers with lids The equipment that comes with the kit, includes-
Complete instruction manual which is easy to follow,
1 5ml measure
1 10ml measure
Full face safety shield
Electric drill
Rotary pump @30ltr per min with Bio ,20mm hoses inlet and outlet
High power electric variable speed mixer with attachment to reactor
Oil sieve and reactor attachment
Thermometer 0- 100 deg c
1x20 ltr plastic methanol mixer with closed lid
1x 10 ltr plastic pail
1 off 100ltr quality steel reactor with round bottom
1 off 100ltr steel tank and gate valve for washing
Primas Gas heating ring , regulator and hose
Water mist spray attachment
Aerator with hose and electric air pump
Digital scales
44 gal cast iron manual drum pump with hose
---------------------------------------


All that is needed is the chemicals and the oil-- full email back up if you get into trouble!!!!
delivery time is 2-3 weeks 20 % deposit with order
for photo of kit
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n63/surfsup_06/coolfuelkit.jpg (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n63/surfsup_06/coolfuelkit.jpg)

Jacka
23rd August 2006, 08:15 PM
I have only one question/comment about the kits :) Other than if I could get a supply of oil I would be in for one.

Why wouldn't you use an electric element for the heating in the drum?

The question I ask is that using Propane/LPG is using a fossil Fuel for the heating part were as using Elec you could aleast dream and say that it is enviromently friendly if your elec comes from solar or wind or even if you are on a RAPS you could be using Bio to get Elec boost out of a Gen.

Just intrested why you would go the Gas route to make it hot?

fantom
25th August 2006, 03:31 PM
MMMMM gas heater have flames therefore flames+methanol = possible bang. wonder if me insurance would pay out.
think a electric element would be much safer. also oily a pump for mixing rather than a drill would be much quieter and also no possible ignition source. just me 5 cents worth.

Cheers Fantom

oily
26th August 2006, 07:27 PM
Hi Fantom, Thanks for the impute
You need to see the kit as there are no flames when the Methanol is mixing and the mixing is done with an enclosed system so there is no chance of a flame mix, the system has been checked out by a professional .There are lots of people who don't have electricity where they want to mix the fuel. I have tried the pump mixing and it doesn't mix as well as this system.
the next question is the handling of Sodium hydroxide and the methanol so I quess we have to be careful and sensible as we are using dangerous goods. The instructions are very comprehensive and cover all safety aspects. It is only as safe as the user from then on!!!!!. Have you seen the kit????:confused:
Oily

Jacka
26th August 2006, 08:24 PM
There are lots of people who don't have electricity where they want to mix the fuel.


Ok I could accept that as the reason if in the list you had some way of mixing the methoxide and VO other than what is listed as being a " High power electric variable speed mixer with attachment to reactor"

Now don't get me wrong I am not tring to pick fault as I think the kit is a fantastic idea just I don't really like the idea of gas heating as it is a fossi fuel other than that I think it is cool :)

oily
27th August 2006, 08:58 PM
:confused: I am working on that as I make a living as a potter and my kilns are gas so am working on a Bio burner for the kiln and this can be used for heating the oil---a good way to get rid of the glycerine!!! and I can save heaps by not using LPG :D guess that would be better than electricity
oily

Jacka
27th August 2006, 09:03 PM
BD burner Hmm now thats a concept that I really want to get my head around :) so many use's for that just figuring out how to get the BD to burn at a steady rate and maintain it self without any outside input!

oily
27th August 2006, 10:24 PM
I have used the principle of the old Primas burners that they used for the portable soldering iron heaters, these were Kero run. The bio is pre heated in the tube by the flame which then turns to vapor.
the problem is that after hours of burning (it worked like a treat, kiln to 300 deg c and oil tank to 60 deg c) there was a build up of sludge in the pipe and it kept cloging the jet. I guess the heat and no oxygen is splitting the bio. Kero is refined .
I have a new design but havn't given it a run yet.
sounds like you could be tempted with flames and methanol???There is only a 2min period (The tank is covered at this period ),where the methanol sits on top of the oil then it mixes with the oil and then it is safe.
Oily

Jacka
27th August 2006, 11:23 PM
Oily I could possibly be tempted with flames and BD reactor :) Would have to be sure of Methanol at the time :) Prob a heat up and shut down flames. Mix and mix and then heat up again to maintain temp which would be OK as the concentration in a well aired area would be way to low to be of concern.

I actually had other thoughts for BD in cooker like the old kero burners that you talk of :) just like to aviod fossil fuels is I can in as many forms as I can :)

I have always thought that an Oil heater might work but havn't been able to get my hands on a working one just yet so can't try it out and from what you are saying that if it works on a similar basis it may well just clog up and stop working till cleaned.

David
27th August 2006, 11:54 PM
Some Pictures of my WVO burner warming up my " wood" fired Pizza oven :p:
http://daretobedifferent.com.au/burner/img_3845_std_std.jpg
http://daretobedifferent.com.au/burner/img_3888_std_std.jpg
http://daretobedifferent.com.au/burner/img_3891_std_std.jpg
http://daretobedifferent.com.au/burner/img_3847_std_std.jpg

I actually discovered the whole bio thing while trying to find info on DIY burners like this. I was originally going to use waste motor oil and then decided that was a bit iffy from the POV of the metal etc it contains, went to used transmission oil ( also full of nasties) and then after getting some WVO and giving that a go, I decided this was the free fuel of choice.

The burner I came up with is run from 12V and kicks out around 50 heating horsepower in this configuration but with air supplied from a vacumm cleaner, I was able to burn more than 20L of WVO an hour. Improving one aspect I overlooked with this particular burner, I could easily double the output I was getting using the 12V blower and probably generate a positively scary jet flame with a more powerful 240V blower.

I originally started work on these things as heater for my swimming pool ( hence the need for a plentiful supply of free fuel) but have had people interested in them for heating kilns, furnaces, water heaters, foundrys and of course Bio production.
I have found it is far easier to design a high output burner than a smaller one. I have been working on a new design but just this weekend have decided that it may not do what I want and will be modifying it to produce what I think will be a lesser but more useful and totally clean output.

I have been asked about burning Glycerin and have done some testing on it. My conclusions are that it can be burnt and burnt quite cleanly but It requires a large chambered burner to handle the huge amount of ash it develops and it would be difficult to put to use for something that requires as relatively small output as warming an amount of WVO gently and without burning it. The other thing that puts me off is that I have read burning Glycerin can produce noxious fumes and going by the whiffs I have got playing with it and the fact it is laden with chemicals like KOH etc, I tend to think it may not be real good to breathe.

IMHO, burning the small amount of WVO that it takes to produce useful, controlable heat is a far better option than Glycerin. I have burnt the glop that settles on the bottom of WVO containers and once filtered and heated to a liquid. it burns just fine.

I'm hoping ( motivated) to finish and test my new design in the next couple of weeks so if anyone is interested, I'll post pics and info then.

Now, Back to the regular Programing I have derailed :o
http://daretobedifferent.com.au/burner/img_3845_std.htm

Sauman
28th August 2006, 05:10 PM
Very interested in how you go.Keep us posted.
Cheers
Sauman

Permanently derailed:D :D :D

Jacka
28th August 2006, 07:59 PM
Very intresting David.

Well done for getting it working :) I do wonder from the looks of that how you go about making it a smaller flame output.

Anyway keep up the good work.

oily
29th August 2006, 09:37 PM
David that looks good enough to put my pots in. I am thinking of going in another direction on the lines of a car fuel injector, where the Bio is fed from a gas cylinder, filled half way and this is attached to my compressor, the same as a plastic weed sprayer.
This should give me a steady vapour of bio that will burn in a ceramic tube . The idea behind this is that this should keep the temp up at the tip to keep the bio alight ( I think). There would still be a blower for the air flow.
So far this is where I am up to, I have all the bits but haven't put it together yet.
What I need is a compact burner for the pottery kilns that have a bit of control of temp and tight flame!!
I don't know if this will work there is only one way to find out.
If anybody has any other ideas I would be greatful for input.
David I will look forward to your new burner keep me posted
By the way do the pizza 's tast of Fish and chips??? Maybe we should start a new discussion on burners !!!
Oily

Chris
29th August 2006, 10:46 PM
Hi all
OK, This is from left field
I have not tried it but I see no reason that it would not work well as they do the same trick for kicks in the UK
I would have thought that the use of an old turbo charger from a car wrecker would provide a nice burner as well as a tight flame and some measure heat control
I will attempt to describe the mode of operation and the mod's needed
In a turbo charger we have the hot side of the turbine bolted to the exhaust manifold of the engine
Once the engine is started the fumes, hot gases, spin the turbo so the cold side sucks air in compresses it and then it delivers it to the inlet manifold of the engine
Now if we where to take a a tube and hook the outlet of the cold side to the inlet of the hot side of the turbo we have a closed loop
If we where to blow air from any source such as a garden blower into the inlet side of the turbo the resulting compressed air would then drive the turbine
Instead of the hot gases driving the turbine we have cold compressed air able to drive the turbine
So, we now have Fresh air compressed into an enclosed chamber if we inject any type of combustible fuel in there and ignite it so long as there is air and fuel we will get ignition
The hot chamber of the turbo is able to withstand the heat generated and The resulting gases as they expand will find the path of least resistance to get out spinning the turbine
What we need to do then is to provide our fuel of choice that is introduced into the cold air stream
That is done where the turbo was meant to be bolted to the exhaust manifold at the flange
We also need a tube attached at the outlet of the turbo a form of a reverse cone at the end to provide back pressure so as to maintain flame
This where all the heat would come out from
Similar to Davids as in the photo's posted
We also need a source of ignition, a spark plug, coil from a car will do
By introducing a fuel that is easy to ignite initially such as say lpg to get the thing firing and hot we can then switch to our fuel say biodiesel or straight oil
The unit is started by using a garden type of blower with the air stream going into the cold side inlet of the turbo
That gets the whole apparatus spinning like hell when sufficient speed is build up the starting fuel as well as ignition is turned on, flame is established
After a minute or so when the outlet tube is hot the biodiesel can be introduced or any other fuel as this things will burn anything that can be introduced into the chamber
The whole thing then runs on its own no fan motor necessary, so long as fuel is available the thing runs, it runs exactly like a jet turbine, spinning at about 35,000 revs
I also would have thought that by running a coiled 1/2 inch tube on the outside of the final exhaust tube and running the glycerin through it to pre heat prior to injection it should burn well
That is what is done in glycerin burners, this device would get hot enough to burn the whole lot
If there is sufficient interest on the concept I will be happy to post some links as to details
There is a fellow in Brisbane that has one of this things on a motorbike that goes like a scalded cat as well as some guys in the UK that put them in go karts
Just some ideas guys to get the mind (boggled ) working
Cheers
Chris

Jacka
29th August 2006, 10:54 PM
Hmm sounds much like one of those flap jets might also do the trick if tuned and inf=jected correctly!

David
30th August 2006, 01:37 AM
Oily, The idea of a ceramic tube is an interesting one and could have many benefits. When you say you are going to half fill a gas tank and get a steady stream of vapour, do you actually mean vapour as in a gas/ mist or do you mean as in a fine spray? I donít believe you will actually get a vapour the way you have described but if you are just looking to pressurize the oil to create a spray, that should be fine depending on your pressures and Nozzle. I have my doubts about a car fuel injector but I havenít tried it so just a feeling rather than any knowledge.

A couple of thoughts on your ideaÖ.

The ceramic tube idea is great ( where do you get them?) because the best thing for a burner be it a vapour or atomizing type is retained heat. Unless you can achieve a very fine mist, ( industrial oil Nozzles fire at around 100 PSI on Diesel and on WVO 200PSI is a good number) you will have extreme difficulty in getting the burner to start. Because my design relies on heat to vaporize the oil to get it to burn, I preheat the burner with LP gas to get it up to temp and then get the oil flowing. The beauty of using ceramic will be that you can run the tube good and hot and once up to temp you wonít need a really wonderful spray of oil because the oil will just vaporize and combust from the heat. What I think you will need to pay attention to is actual flame retention from both a time and physical point of view. Unless you have a very long tube that will create itís own back pressure, you need to create some resistance in the flame tube so the air supply just doesnít blow the flame out the end of the tube. Creating this back pressure could be as easy as putting the tube close to the wall of your kiln or fitting some sort of reducer on the end of the tube if such a thing is made. Being a potter you could probably fashion something up yourself. You could also try firing the air and fuel at an angle instead of straight down the tube to create some swirl and effectively lengthen the mixtures resident time in the burning chamber and firing time.

If you want control of the firing rate, in your design you are going to need to have control over both the fuel and the air supply. If you are planning on using a 240V blower and it is not over 500W, you could just wire in a light dimmer and have seamless control like that. If your blower will be 12V, I just use the blower switch and rheostat from a car. This gives me 4 levels of air control on my burner but in either design you could also just have the blowers running flat out and control the air with a 50mm ball valve on the air tube.

For the fuel regulation, with an injector it will be more difficult. Your ability to limit the volume or pressure of the spray will be pretty limited because they have min and max operating pressures. Just using a valve in the supply line will only work if you are at the upper limit of the injector pressure and turn the flow down therefore reducing the pressure. If you go too low however you will get a dribble rather than a spray. This may not necessarily be a problem though if you put the injector in the airflow so the oil is carried and broken up by the air stream. The fuel line in my burner has no nozzle to clog up from the junk in the WVO I use, it just comes out the end of a bit of 1/4:Ē copper tube located somewhat up the air stream before it enters the burning camber. With the injectors, if you are thinking about using one from a Petrol engine ( which would be better because a diesel injector would require too high a pressure) bear in mind that petrol injectors are indirect in that they only fire from behind the valve and are not located in the combustion chamber itself like a diesel injector. With this in mind, I donít think that keeping the tip hot by exposing it to the heat of the flame even if it is radiant heat, would give the injector a very long life. You could try preheating the fuel to get a better flow if you were going to use WVO which in this application would be cheaper and just as effective as using more valuable bio.

Depending on the turn down ration you need, you could consider switching multiple injectors in and out. You could start with a group of say 4 injectors firing together for preheat and then switch 1,2, or 3 out to maintain the heat you want.

My burner has a very high turn down ration and can fire anything from 20+L an hour to under 1L and hour. The design principle is like a primus burner in that the flame doubles back and heats the incoming air and fuel. Providing the airflow is reduced accordingly and doesnít remove too much heat from the burner, the thing will fire at very low rates without having to reduce its physical size and therefore high end firing rate.
This burner was under 30 cm long and 15 cm high so was pretty compact for its output. My new burner is longer but thinner although will have larger internal airflow dimensions as I am after the greatest heat output from the lowest pressure airflow.

The one thing to keep in mind with these burners is heat retention. You want the burner itself to run hot in order to burn as easily and cleanly as possible. With this in mind and the ability to regulate both fuel and air supply, there are is virtually no limit to the number of designs and layouts that can work.

BTW, with the Pizza oven, I normally light a wood fire in it for cooking :0)
It only gets the burner put in when I want to go from Pizza oven to metal melting furnace. I did use the burner once when people were coming over for dinner and there was a fire ban. I looked up the regulations and the burner in the oven was legal. I heated up the oven ( real well) and then removed the burner and cooked with the retained heat stored in the 1000Kg thermal mass.
I couldnít tell any difference in how the Pizzaís tasted. They are always awesome!

David
30th August 2006, 01:46 AM
I have seen those Turbo Turbines on the web and built a Gas fired combustor for one a few years ago. I substituted compressed air for the pressure the turbo would provide to test it.

It worked well enough for the exhaust to go supersonic and the sound of it ripping the air apart is something that one has to stand in an enclosed garage to properly experience the sheer terror of it.

It would be dam cool to be able to Spool up your kiln although the neighbours may get a bit "over" the noise ( music) of it unfortunately.

oily
30th August 2006, 11:07 PM
Thanks Chris and David
It all sounds fantastic, I can imagine a jet sound coming out of my workshop!!! The ceramic chambers I can make ,They just need refractory clay so they don't get heat shock.
The injector might not take the heat but I will try it, the vapour might burn better.
The primas method worked except for the clogging of the jet, if you had it running with a 1/4 tube I will try that as well as it is simple, maybe the clay tube will retain the heat enough. The pressurised gas cylinder filled with bio should give me a good flow and enough for a firing .
I would love to get some links about burners as you learn from other experiments and maybe we will come up with a burner that we can use for my kiln and to heat the oil. It would be a good thing to burn the Gly as I am throwing away an average of 10 lts a week.
I might get some interesting colours on my pots from the Bio and Gly !!!!!
Keep the info comming.:D
Thanks Oily

David
31st August 2006, 09:45 AM
Just to clarify Oily, in my design the oil is vapourised in a 4" piece of tube not the 1/4" section. The 1/4" line is just the fuel supply. The 4" tube is used because it allows an open space for the oil to primarialy burn with a lot of swirl and to self clean in effect. Basically my burner works on a tube in a tube design. The air and fuel is heated by the flame tube as it doubles back on the outer tube internally.

My latest design is going to work a little differently where instead of all the air being channeled through the burning chamber of the burner, it is going to have a 50/50 flow between the area of the burning fuel and going straight out the flame tube. The idea of this is to create primary and secondary burning zones and move the hottest part of the flame. In the burner pictured, the heat retention was a little much at the high outputs and actually melted and cut the top of the flame tube like someone had been at it with an oxy torch. I am planning on the new design to still have more than enough heat to vapourise the oil and preheat the air but be more stable and achieve a better air fuel mix.

You could do a simple coil of Steel tube ( copper will melt if you get the fire really going) with the flame blowing through the middle if you were using Bio but it would clog quickly on WVO. You also don't need a a jet or nozzle on this design as the vapourised fuel comes out quick enough just through the pressure you feed the fuel through which has to be solid to stop the flame Spluttering. I built a burner like this years ago and found the use of a small one way valve smoothed the flame output a lot and made the burner more stable and reliable.

Have a look at this link for some ideas on WVO burners. I think there are a few guy there that use their burners for Pottery as well as metal melting.

http://backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=8&sid=164c2a8e8118e043fdd279396378311a

Have you worked out how much heat you need in your Kiln oily or what cone temp do you need to hit?

JOD34N
10th June 2007, 10:06 PM
Hello Oily,
Could you please pm me some info on your kits eg, quantities of oil & chemicals needed in relation to biodiesel obtained. I am new to all this so any help would be much appreciated.
Thank-you,
Dean.

oily
25th May 2008, 10:07 PM
Hi everybody,
I have a full Coolfuel kit that a friend is selling, it has all the gear and even has the 12vlt bowser pump and filter, all you need is the oil .it is the latest kit that I had made. he is moving into a small house!!!
He will sell the full kit for $1000 If you need help with making the fuel I will help--- it would cost you double if you had to replace it. The kit does have all the instructions. email if you want further info:D
Oily