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  • B100

    Hi Folks. I have been running a 33KVA cummins gen set on B100 from new, also my Hilux 2.8 diesel ute for the last 5000Km. The hilux was running on various % mixtures for years. But since moving to NorthernNSW I have been buying it from North Coast Biodiesel / North coast Cooking oils...in Byron Bay. They in turn buy it from Biodiesel Industries Australia P/L, so I no longer have to make a mess doing it myself. I have also just bought a new Citroen C4 1600 HDi diesel that I intend running on B100....As there has been so much negative feed back about B100 & PSA engines (They make Peugeot/Citroen engines) I am going to introduce it over a period of time & monitor all & any changes that may occur. I could just run it on B100 from the second tank full (it came with a full tank of Diesel) & I have no doubts that this would be just fine.......but this would not satisfy my curiosity for comparisons between the two fuels. I figure 2 tanks of Diesel (2000 to 2400Km) 2 tanks of B30 - 2 tanks of B50 & then B100..I am hoping to find someone with a Dynomometer so power tests can be done through this process. I'll keep you posted as things progress. ........To dispel a myth. To say that biodiesel polutes the sump oil is utter rot. Sump oil from diesels running B100 have beautiful clean oil, not like the black sludge that comes from engines running diesel. My cummins & Toyota are the living proof of this as are a swag of fishing boats running B100 in Cummins up in Far North Queensland

  • #2
    Re: B100

    I also just purchased a new Citroen c4, so I'd love to know how yours go. Do you know if Citroen Australia have any problems with running biodiesel?

    I'm living in Melbourne, so it's not so easy for me to get biodiesel from a commercial outlet. But I'm interested in giving it a go - though I'm not very mechanically minded, so instructions like "keep a spare filter in the glovebox" scare me somewhat!

    - Korny

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    • #3
      Re: B100

      Originally posted by Rafe
      ..I am hoping to find someone with a Dynomometer so power tests can be done through this process.
      You would probably want to wait till the car hit 20,000 K or maybe more for your Dyno tests to mean anything. Being a new car the engine and drive train will be tight and the power will continue to increase till it all frees up.

      I have never had a new car but I have had a couple of new bikes and the last one was so gutless when I got it I actually took it back to the dealer and complained. He told me it would be a different bike at 10,000 K and he was absoloutley right. It was still freeing up till about 14,000K and that was with a bike motor that was only 1.3L.

      I would imagine a bigger engine and a diesel could take a fair bit longer to properly bed in. Untill this has happened, the power output tests on a Dyno that were trying to test the Fuel would be pretty skewed.

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      • #4
        Re: B100

        100% agree with David

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        • #5
          Re: B100

          Originally posted by Rafe
          I figure 2 tanks of Diesel (2000 to 2400Km)
          Just by the way - country driving you should be able to get at least 2400k to a tank, possibly more. I drove to the Grampians and back (about 700k) and if the trip computer is to be believed, I averaged 4.6l per 100k - admittedly, I was driving quite conservatively just to see how low I could go But at that rate, you might get as much as 1300k per tank!

          City driving in peak hour, I get more like 5.9l per 100k, so that would be closer to your low-end figure.

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          • #6
            Re: B100

            Thanks for the advise . I agree about the dyno. I'm also thinking it will be hard to do any real tests as Sumer comes along & the air con gets used on those stinking days.Have been thinking that. As I will be using a 200litre drum. Which should equal 4000Km. I will change it to Diesel for the first 5000Km & then B50 for the next 5000Km....No doubt this may change too. Citroens view on Biodiesel is; I quote; •"Citroen approves of the use of Biodiesel as long as the quality of the Biofuels/wethyl ester conforms to the European standard EN14214 and the fuel mixture meets standard EN590, having a maximum5% of fatty acid methyl-ester. Citroen agrees to apply its normal guarantee to vehicles using this standard fuel" •On the other hand, Citroen does not cover under guarantee the use of pure Biodiesel (B100): poor resistance of rubber components in the fuel circit ( leading to the risk of leaks and starting and running problems) and of the fuel injection components.END QUOTE. This was an Organisational Bulletin issued to dealers on 14/8/2006. I was given a copy after I had purchased the vehicle. A few days prior to buying the vehicle I had asked verbally & via email whether B100 was suitable for the C4. In answer to the email I was told by the general manager that biodiesel was OK for use in a C4.As I has specifically asked about B100. I had assumed he was answering my question on B100...I am used to being treated like a mushroom.

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            • #7
              Re: B100

              Perhaps there may be some benifit to using a 5 or 10% blend for the first 5000Km given BD's greater lubrication effect. Of course all the moving parts in an engine are lubricated with oil but a bit of extra lubrication in a tight bore can't be a bad thing for a new engine. As everything is as tight as it will ever be, it is logical that the rings may scrape more oil off the bore than they should right when the engne needs all the lubrication it can get.
              In the past I have always put some 2 stroke oil in my 4-Stroke bikes fuel just to let the engine bed in that much easier.

              I think the gentler you can break an engine in, the better and given that people say their vehicles run smoother on BD, that can't be a bad thing for a new engine as well.

              Something I have done with new engines is to change the oil at 500KM.
              While it may sound a very short amount of time, I have seen plenty of metal in the oil that was drained not to mention what was in the filters when I cut them open. For the price of a filter and some oil, I believe this is a worthwhile way of making sure you have done everything possible to make sure the engine will give the longest life possible.

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