Getting an 80-series Landcruiser ready for biodiesel

[3DB Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 3DB]

Hi Team.

Long time no speak. Work and commitments to young family have been keeping me busy. Also, my Rodeo is still going strong on B100 and has had no issues in the last 3 years other than having to replace flexible fuel lines. I even ran it on SVO / WVO for a year or so on a temporary stint interstate. So I've just been driving and not thinking a lot about it.

Until now. I bought my parents 1991 80-series with a 1HD-T factory turbo that they bought in 1995 with 50,000 km on it. It now has 475,000 and is still amazingly strong.

I've yet to fill it with bio, but in preparation, I have removed the OEM filter assembly and installed a CAV unit and serviceable pre-filter (approx. 100 micron) to catch any of the 33 years of gunk that might have built up in the tanks. I chose the CAV as bio killed the rubber in the primer plunger on my Rodeo that sits on top of the OEM filter head and the Cruiser has the same system. That and the Delphi 296 CAV filter elements are $6 each and you can pretty much dig a hole in the back yard and find one if desperate. To replace the primer, I've installed a $15 eBay Facet-style electric pump that I have had a lot of success with on the Rodeo. They do fail, eventually but I just keep a spare onboard and swap it out as necessary. The one I've been using on the Rodeo has been going for at least 3 years now.

The dual tanks I'm not quite sure about. I seem to recall that there is only one return off the IP that goes back to the main tank, so if running the sub-tank, it will return to the main. Can anyone confirm?

I was wondering whether I might just keep a bit of emergency dino in the sub tank and only use it in emergency and just use the main tank as much as possible, but I can't really justify why I wouldn't put bio in both.

Just wanted to see if anyone had any tips or comments before I fillerup.

[Alga Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Alga]

G'day, Haven't checked in for quite awhile. Been running a 91 series 80 HDJ80 on svo for around 6 years, since giving up on using bio because of the time and hassle making it. During that time have rebuild the engine because it had over 500000klms, got a better turbo, intercooler, long range tank and had it dynoed, now it runs beautifully.

My set up has a small 2.5lt dino starter tank under the bonnet and use the two main tanks for svo. There's only one return line to the tanks and I recycle the return fuel back to the ip, except for when shutting down for the day, then I switch to the starter tank and flush the system back into the main tanks, which takes 1.5lt of dino, then switch back to the ip. Used to have an inline pump, but by not having a return to the tank when driving found not need so disconnected it. Been experimenting with bypassing the HE have fitted, because was having trouble with it over last summer and o matter what I did still getting air into the system. Have yet to reconnect the HE, even though where I am we are getting temps well below 10deg. I've been warming the engine up for around 10-15mins so the engine bay gets warm and thins the svo, so far working but have noticed when first driving early in the morning the car can struggle a bit until it really warms up, then it flies along.

I've also stopped using inline filters, as they restricted the fuel flow. After series 60 cruisers, they went to 10mm fuel lines and the inline filters are 8mm. So far no problems with main fuel filter and as they only cost around $15 on ebay., reckon can afford to change them more regularly. So far done over 20000klms and haven't had to change a filter so that's working, although reckon as it gets colder may have to reconnect the HE and if so will install another one as this one is very old and may be allowing air into the system.

Series 80 up to 1993 run really well in svo and bio, so hope you have a good time with it. Hope that helps you.

[Tony From West Oz Vice Chairperson of WARFA Find all posts View Profile Close Tony From West Oz]

Alga,
Can you have the FPHE tested to verify that there is no air leak from the FPHE into the fuel system
I believe that it would be very unlikely that the brazed SS FPHE would have an air leak. More likely are the hose connections to the fuel system being the source of the air ingress.... LOL

Just my 2c worth
Tony

[3DB Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 3DB]

Thanks for the thoughts, Alga. Is your engine a 1HD or 1HZ?

Mine has 12.5mm fuel lines, which are enormous and nearly impossible to find fittings for, so I have a few adapters going down to 10mm for the filter and 8mm for the electric pump. It seems to pull ok up to redline on the flat, but I haven't tested it on a hill yet and I may come unstuck there. We will see.

[Alga Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Alga]

Tony the HE have on the 91 cruiser is a copper Helton, which has brassed water a fuel lines into the tank and think the brassing is leaking air. It's well over 15 years old and is attached to the engine, so gets a bit of vibration. Got some other HE's so will put one of those on and see how it goes, but running ok as it is. Sadly Helton seems to have come to a halt as they don't answer emails and the date on the site is 2019. The HE brought from you many years ago, is on the 12ht sahara I sold to my neighbour about 6 years ago, which now has a blown head gasket and just sitting there, as she has bought a 1995 Delica which is a great van and runs really well on SVO. May take the HE off the sahara and put it on mine, when the neighbours travelling in her delica, which is self contained and she gets VO where every she stops and filters it with shopping bags.

3DB, my cruisers a HD, not a HZ, so should have the same size fuel lines and mine are 10mm, although a 12mm hoses fit easily. They are a great vehicle for SVO and had no problems with it except for the air leak and fixed that bypassing the HE, but it's a temporary fix which may have to change in the next couple of days as going away to an area where it will be below freezing in the mornings. Will probably use more dino warming the engine and then it may not get warm enough to thin the oil for a decent flow. If you're interested, I put a turbo which increases HP by 20% and after getting it dynoed it has excellent power. About to fit a rebuild gearbox and transfer case, as there's to much play in mine and the reco ones have a higher top gear which according to others I know who have changed their gearboxes, they get around an extra 200klms out of a standard tank. I've got a 170lt sub tank and 110 main tank and go a long way but if the new gearbox lives up to expectations, it will give me an unreal fuel range. As it is can travel close to 2300klms on my fuel setup, sitting on 90-95kph. Travelling at 100kph, drops the range quite a bit, but with some good music and good company getting somewhere 10-15mins later isn't a hassle.

[3DB Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 3DB]

What turbo did you put on, Alga? Is it one of those G-turbos from WA? I'm not sure how much I want to modify mine at this point. It pulls a lot better than my Rodeo on the hills, so I'm pretty happy with that. I remember when the oldies first bought it, it got 13.5 L/100 km and 30 years later it is pretty much the same. Maybe bit less on bio now. One mod I would consider is a part-time 4WD kit. I used to have a 'standard' 80 with 1HZ and factory part time transfer case and it drove so much better than this thing. The gear changes are supper clunky and you have to take it very slow and steady on the changes and get the clutch positioning just right to make it a smooth ride - rush it and it jerks & jumps and clunks. I've heard the part time kit sorts that out a lot. Would probably save a bit in tyre wear too.