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Thread: Cooking oil cruiser

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Scone NSW

    Cooking oil cruiser

    Hi guys
    I was an active member a few years ago and travelled many kms on SVO. As I found this forum a great place to exchange information at that time I would like to share this video I recently put together of my time spent modifying and driving my old 80 series Landcruiser HDJ80 with 1HDT motor.
    It was great father and son experience as I needed some help to put the engine back together a couple of times and used his keen eyes to set the marks on the timing gears to save me getting my glasses lol.
    It was modified using an extra on board tank in the rear and separate solenoid taps near the IP to control switching at different times to avoid cross contamination of existing diesel tanks. You can see where I put the heat exchanges and extra plumbing.
    The video has the person in mind who has never heard of doing this before so I edited it to have a little fun and try to keep them interested. Hope you like it? Love to see how you guys did it so please share any links to videos or comment?

    Here's the link

    The following is an in depth description of the old cruiser and my setup:

    Cooking Oil Cruiser Right Place Right Time
    Toyota Landcruiser 80 series turbo diesel 1HDT
    The Upper Hunter Valley’s first Bio-renewables processing plant 2007.
    This is the best way I can describe it. It’s a wonderful feeling to break free from the chains of the big end of town and experience the thrill of driving on a bio-renewable fuel that a few weeks earlier your lunch was cooked in and you ate part of it and a few weeks before that it was a plant that grew from seed in a field on a farm near you.
    A mate of mine said he was going to run his brand new Landcruiser on the used cooking oil that the fish n chip shops and restaurants got rid of and I thought he was mad but then I got to thinking hey that’s not a bad idea.
    I was able to prove to myself and my kids that it can be done and was very reliable for many years and a few hundred thousand kilometres. It was environmentally sustainable and it saved heaps of money.
    Youtube gives me the opportunity to pass on my experiences.
    There are many things to consider and a few pitfalls to watch out for.

    Right from the get go the key is fuel management.

    Collection and processing:
    Quantity. Can I get enough of it to make it worthwhile? Be realistic as modifications can be expensive
    Types of cooking oils suitable: Whatever is available such as canola, cotton seed, blended vegetable oils even olive oil.
    Canvasing pubs, clubs and takeaways and leaving cards. Laminate them as kitchens are wet.
    Picking up the cooking oil. Some are pump outs and some are reused drums.
    Transporting the cooking oil. Usually in reused 20ltr drums a 44gal drum or cube on a trailer.
    Storing the cooking oil. Where to store it. Consider environmental safety!
    Type of storage facility. Type of containers and weather proofing.I used 1000 litre cubes: Clean out cubes before use. Don’t leave residue such as chain lube or gear oils.
    Filtering the cooking oil. Type of pumps and filters. Gravity is a good starting place.
    Recycling the fats and solids. Club members may accept for free and process further for bio diesel.
    Recycling the drums. Recycle depot accepts steel for free.
    Type of refueling. I used an electric fuel bowser just like the ones at the real service stations.

    Vehicle modifications: (These are not needed if you are using bio diesel.) I’m using 100% cooking oil so I need to modify my vehicle.
    Choice of diesel engine. Mine was a Toyota Landcruiser 80 series turbo diesel engine type 1HDT direct injection (mechanical injector pump). The old Mercedes Benz and Nissan Patrols are OK too and many other older diesel engines.
    Choice of configuration. There are many variations. The choice is yours.
    Vehicle onboard fuel management: Must be an easy to operate and a reliable system. I chose the least invasive way and installed an extra tank Just for cooking oil and was able to continue to operate on the existing diesel tanks if the cooking oil was in short supply or was interrupted. Keep your options open. You can use your existing diesel tanks for cooking oil instead if you want to configure yours a different way.

    First steps: indepth
    All you need to do is first try and establish a regular supply of cooking oil and make a plan for regular collections. You need to be realistic as it won’t be worth the effort to go further with other expenses on the vehicle if you can’t get enough.
    The Processing Plant:
    On the ground: The first stage of filtering is naturally what happens as a result of gravity and this occurs from the get go even before the oil is collected from the restaurants as sedimentation occurs from the moment the restaurants put the used cooking oil back into the same 20 litre drums it came from and leave it standing ready for collection. On the collection day you have to pick them up and carry them to the trailer and place them in it carefully you can even use a trolley to get them there
    After transportation to your own home/storage depot the drums can be emptied. You can tip the oil from the drums individually into separate storage containers/cubes and tip the sedimentation or sludge that gathers on the bottom into another and repeat the process to further refine the remaining oil still trapped in the sludge. Sometimes it’s a pump out, where you have to pump out a larger onsite 200 litre recycling drum and you are obliged to take the lot, the sedimentation process will be disrupted.
    After arrival, instead of having to use a funnel to empty the drums they could be up ended into a repurposed stainless steel kitchen sink mounted on the top of the cube. The plumbing on the sink was a perfect match for the threaded connection in the cap of the cube and the sink itself could be screwed on and supported by a couple of empty 5 litre plastic drums located at either end of the sinks draining boards between it and the top of the cube. Any chunky bits would be caught in the sink’s existing drain hole grill and could be picked up later and thrown away.
    The sludge can be processes further by other people who want to make biodiesel. It usually contains chunky bits including fish h chips, batter, meat, scraps, particles, fat, water etc.

    Further filtering: Again the choice is open for different options for further filtering. I used the following two methods.
    One Method: Initially I tried filtering with the environmentally friendly reusable shopping bags. They do a good job down to about 5 microns or less and again this process takes advantage of gravity. You just fill them and leave them overnight and it’s ready the next day to use. I built a frame to hang eight of them over a tub to increase to the quantity of filtered cooking oil to keep up with the amount of fuel my vehicle was using. This was a successful method.
    2nd method: From little things big things grow.
    Eventually it came time to try a different method as that’s what it’s all about experimenting. My plans were on a grander scale so I moved to larger storage containers and lots of them. Cubes have a capacity of 1000 litres and cheap at mates rates. I arranged over a dozen of them in two rows and adopted first in last out approach where they would stand untouched for over a year giving plenty of time for gravity to take effect. In this way you could increase the time interval between each cube having a turn to be pumped out. You simply pumped off from the top of the one that had sat there the longest from each one in turn and repeat the process. Simply taking advantage of gravity again and the natural process of sedimentation as the primary filter.
    An existing tap located on the bottom of each cube could be used at regular intervals to open and drain off the water and some of the sludge to help maintain the original capacity of each cube to hold cooking oil.
    All the different contaminants in the old cooking oil have a different buoyancy and are suspended in different layers in the containers with the good oil on the top down through different layers to the water near the bottom. In some ways similar to an oil refinery though no heating is used in the process, However in saying that, the process works faster in summer rather than winter.
    3rd method: Is to use a centrifuge that spins the oil in a drum and uses centrifugal force in place of gravity to speed up the process. Unfortunately I didn’t get around to trying this method.

    Pumping from storage:
    During pumping from the cubes I used extra filters. First there was a wire mesh filter before the foot valve at the bottom of the variable length syphon. The syphon was inserted in through the cap on the top of the cube and lowered into the cooking oil and its intake was adjusted to a suitable depth above the sediment or sludge at the bottom of the tank so as not to suck it up. The hose attached to the syphon allowed connection of the other end to a pump. The hose was long enough to reach the location of any cube. Using a foot valve at the intake of the syphon to keep it primed allowed the use of a cheaper higher flow electric water pump for the cooking oil.
    The output of the pump was connected to a pressurized filter by another hose. This filter was a repurposed drinking water filter of the type usually found in a home connected to mains pressure. It had the filter element inside of a pressurized casing. The casing had an inlet and an outlet. It was now used for cooking oil. The output of this filter was connected by another hose to a fuel bowser nozzle. The nozzle is of the same type you would find on the bowser at a service station when you buy fuel to fill up your car.
    I could park my cruiser beside my own fuel bowser and take the cap off the onboard cooking oil tank, insert the nozzle and flick the power switch on and fill er up. The bowser and some of the storage tanks were mounted on the back of my old Holden ute.

    The onboard system:
    Fuel tanks:
    The onboard cooking oil tank is a marine grade 100 litre plastic diesel fuel tank which is mounted in a frame in the rear of the cargo area behind the cargo barrier strapped to the floor using the existing cargo anchor points. The frame allowed a shelf to be made above the tank to support extra cargo. I used a short length of 2 inch hose from the top of the tank to the new cooking oil filler cap to allow easy access to the new cap from the rear side window. Access could be gained by sliding the rear side window open. A narrow hose was used for an air bleed from the top of the tank to a place near the inside of the filler cap. This allowed the displaced air in the tank to escape as it was being filled with cooking oil. This prevented blowback of the fuel from the tank and allowed faster refueling.
    The tank comes as a blank and allowed a choice of connections. I set it up for connection to the engine using a send and return line using additional fuel hose. The connections were both located at the top of the tank separately as the send line needed to suck from the bottom of the tank and the return line emptied into the top of the tank. To achieve this the return line was simply connected to one of the connections and send line used a short length of fuel hose lowered vertically from the other top connection to extend and place the intake end of the hose on the bottom of the inside of the tank. The end of the hose was cut at an angle at the intake end to prevent it closing off during contact with the bottom of the tank.
    For a fuel gauge I used a short length of clear fuel hose mounted externally between connections located on the side at the top and bottom of the tank allowing a visual sighting of the fuel level in the hose. The fuel level in the hose on the outside of the tank corresponded to the same fuel level inside the tank. This method is sometimes used as standard on old farm machinery as a fuel gauge.
    Some of the extra lengths I went to added to an improved user experience and some were essential.
    I was effectively transporting a cargo of food product in a very secure and precise way. The waste cooking oil is not modified in any way at any point and is essentially a food product filtered. So you are simply transporting fish n chips, calamari and crab sticks flavored cooking oil lol.
    The exhaust smells like fish and chips and sometimes even more exotic depending on which restaurant the waste cooking oil came from.
    You regularly have a line of traffic follow you as you pull over for lunch on long journeys lol.
    The existing diesel fuel tanks were not touched in any way and were used only to start and stop the engine and were ready for a cold engine start on diesel as the engine wouldn’t start on cold cooking oil. They were also used if the supply of cooking oil ran out or was in short supply for any reason.

    Electrical system: The operation of the electrical system is described in a later chapter in conjunction with the cooking oil switching. The electrics take advantage of a fused battery feed and a fused ignition feed and a fused battery feed from the output of the original turbo timer. Relay one is set up as the main control relay and is configured to latch on at a time chosen by the operator after the ignition switch is turned on. One of the normally open contacts on the relay and one side of the coil is energised from a momentary press of the button on the dash board. This button is the cooking oil button. The battery voltage via the normally open contact now electrically latches the relay on. The relay coil remains energised even after the button is released and remains energised until the ignition is turned off. Ie If you press it again nothing happens as the circuits are already latched on. The 2nd relay is a slave relay to the first and controls the coils on the solenoid taps and lift pump and an indicator led in the button. A second re-purposed turbo timer is used to delay the return solenoid switching back and its battery feed is from the original turbo timer output battery instead so that it can be switched back immediately and overridden by turning the original turbo timer off. ie if you turned off the main turbo timer for any reason or battery voltage was lost. The more thought given to how you want your electrics to perform the better it is for safety and the easier it is for the operator.
    You can set it up to be fool proof.

    Engine Modifications:
    Modifications are minimal as there are no engine modifications at all as the modifications are more like installing accessories in the engine bay.
    The existing fuel lines and heater hose are spliced and connections made and you carry around a food product and that’s it.
    All you need to do is to decide how you are going to do it.
    You Just have to remember the engine won’t start cold on cold cooking oil so you need a system to start and stop using normal diesel fuel from the existing onboard diesel fuel tanks and switching over to the heated cooking oil when both the engine is hot and the cooking oil is hot.
    The oil must be hot to be able to atomize as it is injected into the engine cylinders. Cold cooking oil won’t atomize or mist in some engines including the 1HDT.
    Two fuel lines need to run from the onboard cooking oil tank to the engine, one of them is a send line and the other is a return line.
    To interface the cooking oil you need to splice into the existing diesel send and return lines and do this located near the injector pump on the engine.
    The send line from the cooking oil tank must pass through one side of a heat exchanger and an additional fuel filter located in the engine bay.
    I chose to use two heat exchangers and two filters for double heating and filtering in the engine bay.
    Close proximity to the engine ensures the cooking oil retains the heat before fuel injection so the 2nd heat exchanger was mounted closer to the injector pump.
    To manage and control all this I used a system of solenoid taps and relays, timers and a single momentary button. The single button made it easy for the operator to operate. I labelled the button “Freeway” as it was in more ways than one.
    The other side of the heat exchangers are spliced into the existing heater hose and use the existing engine coolant for heating.
    To know the right time to switchover I relied on visual sighting of the existing engine temperate gauge in the instrument cluster on the dashboard for the right temperature to press the button. One momentary press of the button would switch over to cooking oil. I used a relay wired to latch on and be held on while ever the ignition was on to control the rest of the circuits. All it would take is usually a few kms down the road to warm up. At the same time switching occurred, the diaphragm lift pump would turn on.
    The lift pump is mounted on the onboard cooking oil tank to put positive pressure of around 7 psi into the send fuel line to reduce possibility of strain on existing fuel injection pump as the cooking oil is cold from the tank and has a high viscosity to overcome and the oil is harder to move. ie very thick.
    The lift pump provides a nice heart beat sound while driving on cooking oil and really connects you to the process as if something goes wrong the heartbeat changes. You get used to the sound of a good heart beat. As previously mentioned a coarse filter made from an inline garden hose filter was used before the lift pump on the onboard tank just in case any chunky bits or insects fell in or flew into the tank during the refueling process lol.
    When I reached my destination all I had to do was to turn off the ignition key which automatically removed the battery voltage from the latching control relay and dropped it out switched the fuel lines back to the diesel tanks and let the existing turbo timer run the engine on for a few minutes purging the injector pump of cooking oil and replacing it with diesel ready to start the next time on a cold engine.
    This was planned as an extra safety measure in case of an accident to shut of the cooking oil, as you relied of battery power to be present to be able to run on cooking oil and if it wasn’t present the solenoids would drop out to their default position connecting back to normal diesel.
    An extra timer was added at a later date to keep the return cooking oil fuel line switching solenoid activated for extra time after switch back occured to delay the switch back of the return line to the diesel tank by two or three minutes to reduce the cross contamination of cooking oil returning to the diesel tanks. This would purge the system of cooking oil. Cooking oil present in the diesel tank was not good as it affected performance when the engine was cold and also affected cold starting. The other way round is OK, as a bit of diesel in the cooking oil tank was no problem and did not affect performance or cold starting. This is why it’s important to have separate solenoids as this is the only way it can be achieved. The initial switchover to cooking can occur simultaneously but the switch back must be differentiated.
    The electric circuit used a combination a battery and ignition power using relays configured to latch on at the momentary press of a button located on the dashboard. An indicator light in the same button activated from the return circuit on the latching control relay to let you know that it had successfully switched over or back again.
    It was a fool proof system and didn’t require much effort from the driver .You could also momentarily drop the key off while driving and revert back to normal diesel at any time.
    Servicing is very important and regular fuel filter changes were done at 5,000km to 10,000km intervals.
    A later upgrade using an additional turbo boost gauge in reverse as a suction gauge connected after the inline fuel filters on a T piece would let you know if the fuel filters were getting blocked by reading a higher suction.
    I used to buy CAV filter elements in bulk and it worked out at around $4 each. I later update to the larger screw on type elements.
    If you’re wondering by now is the system any good and will it save me money? Yes it is and it did.
    During its lifetime my Landcruiser towed many work trailers and caravans most of the time and got me half way back from the moon on waste cooking oil. It also provided me with many years of being able to travel and attend tafe colleges to get a further education.
    I had some memorable journeys from the Sydney harbor bridge to Byron bay Blues fest and various long haul journeys in Australia.
    The possibilities were endless If you used a pump and hose and had a thousand litres of cooking oil in tow on the trailer including the onboard tank plus the existing two diesel tanks in the landcruiser full plus eight additional twenty five litre drums in the back full of cooking oil. Heap big good…………. Just joking lol. That’s another story.
    For those wanting to know how good the engine performs I did get a speeding fine on cooking oil once. It happened on the Golden Highway when I stopped to help someone on the side of the road, turned out to be a cop with a speed camera lol.

    Lessons learned and tips:

    Keep cooking oil away from items made of rubber as it will eat them away. You’ll need to replace the rubber seals in the injector pump with viton. Don't let it touch brake lines or tyres.

    Remove inline screen filters as they clog up too quickly. Some are hidden in banjo connectors.

    Never use out of date fuel filters or any that haven’t been stored properly as they may collapse in use. My biggest regret.
    I updated to triple onboard filtering after a faulty CAV filter element collapsed once.

    Use injector cleaner only in diesel tanks. Frequency depends on the quality of cooking oil and condition of the injectors.

    Add white spirits to every onboard cooking oil tank refill at 100ml / 100 litres. This prevents solids forming and helps the fat pass through the filters and increases the time between filter changes. If you are lucky enough to use new cooking oil don’t bother.

    Stay away from electronic fuel injection. The sensors get clogged up affecting engine performance.

    Use a diaphragm lift pump (walbro) at the on board fuel tank. They are preset to around 7 psi to help pressurise and move the thick oil through the fuel lines.

    Get yourself a shed as it makes life easier and keeps stored things like fuel filter elements out of the weather.

    Never leave the bowser unattended. I had cooking oil coming out of all four doors filling up the cab once lol.

    Veg oil mixed in the diesel tank is no good but OK the other way round as diesel mixed in veg oil tank.

    EGT display mounted under the dashboard is handy if you want to experiment and tweak the injector pump. Place the sensor after the turbo and keep the reading below 550 deg C. Remember you lose about 100 deg C across the turbo and remember pistons start to melt above 700 deg C.

    I purchased nearly all the parts to complete my project over the internet from various countries and places around the world and was able to do it my way.

    Good quality hose clamps must be used to prevent weeping connections as the oil is very corrosive and hard to contain at terminations.

    Be aware that oil pumping rates slow down in cold weather so filling up the on board tank may take longer in winter.

    Have a good supply of rags on hand to try and keep things clean. It eventually gets everywhere.

    Never leave oily rags in the sun as they will smolder and catch fire.

    The “bio fuels forum” online is a good place to exchange ideas and solve problems.
    Youtube videos are the best source of free information!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Some progressive countries will embrace this and others, well what can I say.
    It was a wonderful opportunity to be a part of the Bio-renewables future.
    Above all stay safe and make it fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    The cruiser always got me home.

    Loved that Landcruiser Oh what a feeling.
    Last edited by oztec2007; 31st March 2018 at 09:31 PM. Reason: More detail

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Forster NSW

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Quote Originally Posted by oztec2007 View Post
    Hi guys
    I was an active member a few years ago and travelled many kms on SVO. As I found this forum a great place to exchange information at that time I would like to share this video I recently put together of my time spent modifying and driving my old 80 series Landcruiser 1HDT.
    It was great father and son experience as I needed some help to put the engine back together a couple of times and used his keen eyes to set the marks on the timing gears to save me getting my glasses lol.
    It was modified using an extra on board tank in the rear and separate solenoid taps near the IP to control switching at different times to avoid cross contamination of existing diesel tanks. You can see where I put the heat exchanges and extra plumbing.
    The video has the person in mind who has never heard of doing this before so I edited it to have a little fun and try to keep them interested. Hope you like it? Love to see how you guys did it so please share any links to videos or comment?
    Thanks for the great video i enjoyed it very much i am still running on veggie oil must have gone past your way just the other day on my way to Bourke heading of to Brisbane next week i have a similiar set up to ours including the tank against the cargo barrier area mines ally with 150 litre main tank and a 60 litre diesel thanks again

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Forster NSW

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Thanks for the great video i thought you have done a great job went past your way last week on my way to Bourke would have loved to call in and had a chat of to Brisbane next week

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Tea gardens. nsw

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Great video. You need glasses didnt you see the arrows. And pulling over to help someone.
    Luved it
    Heers stuart
    just keep it simple

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Interesting video, certainly not the way I have or would set up a 1hdt, to complicated and failure prone. Just settling your oil is also dangerous in my opinion. Have found the difference between settling, filtering and centrifuging vo is quite a lot. Settling only takes out the heavy stuff, not the particulates and bag filtering, does little more. Whilst centrifuging seems to take out everything, leaving very clean oil and it's much less work. This has reduced inline filter changes a lot. Have experimented with settling, then filtering then putting the oil through the centrifuge. Each one takes out some form of junk, would have thought the 1 micron bags would've removed everything, but when put through the centrifuge, it left black sludge in the bowl.

    With my oil, it's first settled and the main junk and water drained off, then it goes through the centrifuge which then removes what's left and sometimes there is water removed as well.

    My 1991 1hdt is a simple set up, using the main for vo and the sub for dino/bd. I purge the entire system including the main filter, but have a small purge tank under the bonnet for emergency purges if needed. Also removed the return line to the tanks which means there is no strain on the system, considering the amount of fuel going through it. The inline filter is before the HE and the main is after, have found if you don't purge the main filter, they can collapse and break up.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Scone NSW

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Hi limoman
    I'd love to see how you did it however sadly I don't have my old cruiser to show you anymore as it all went in a recent property settlement and was sold to a fella up near your way. If your every passing through Scone give us a bell.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Scone NSW

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    yeah Hi Stuart hoping nobody noticed lol

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Scone NSW

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Hi Alga
    I'ts allot of fun experimenting with different ways of doing it and the video was fun too. What ever works for you and that's how mine evolved to be a very reliable system using good quality parts and was fool proof for the driver. The key is fuel management start to finish. We are all proof it can be done and there are many ways of doing it and they all have their advantages. One of my objectives in the conversion was to be least invasive when installing it and to be able to operate on standard diesel tanks if for some reason obtaining oil was a problem. I wish I had a centrifuge like yours and even toyed with the idea of converting an old washing machine spin cycle long time ago. Glad you liked the video. Good luck with your project.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    G'day Mark, I agree there are many different ways others have plumbed for vo. My experimentation was over a decade ago for vehicles and my first use of VO in engines was back in the late 1970's, so have no projects, just a bit of experience with it.

    Currently I run 9 engines on SVO, Di and iDi, from generators, 12m bus, motorsailer, tip truck, earthmoving equipment, farm tractor, 12ht Sahara and 1hdt cruiser. My setups a very simple and in the last 10 years haven't failed, except for a faulty main filter in the tip truck.

    I posted the things I disagreed with in your setup, because some of them could lead to problems down the track, not filtering, no inline filter and considering you had a failed filter which wrecked your iP. I view that happening as being created by your setup. Unless you forgot to mention in the video you had an inline filter, heated the oil before the main filter and fully purged the system.

    Just heating after and not fully purging the entire lines, can create problems, just as not using a push pump for Di engines, I believe is another problem waiting to happen, especially fuel starvation and filter collapse. Others have found leaving VO in the main filters, will result in them breaking up over time and without warning, know of a couple of people who experienced that happening, Luckily it was around the time was getting into converting vehicle engines, was made aware of this by one who suffered the problem and had to have their iP rebuilt. That person is a mechanical engineer and old/ steam engine fanatic, even the experts with engines are vulnerable to problems.

    It's important for as much information as possible is provided for anyone getting into VO power. That way the4y can create the best system for their requirements, but it is also important to not provide info that could give some one the wrong impression and have problems they could have avoided down the track.

    As for centrifuges, they are wonderful and paid for mine within the year, in fuel savings. If had more money would get a bigger one, as it takes about 4-6 hours to do 100lts. The only problem I've had with it is the 3 phase motor controller they provided failed just out of warranty, bought a really cheap ebay one and it has been working for many years.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    ลึก ประเทศอินเด&

    Re: Cooking oil cruiser thanks for

    Hi Alga,

    Quote Originally Posted by Alga View Post
    My experimentation was over a decade ago for vehicles and my first use of VO in engines was back in the late 1970's, .
    That is interesting. Something I have often wondered-
    Please tell us all about using VO in engines in the late 70's.
    What was the engine being used for that you were using VO in back then and what type of modifications did you make to handle the VO fuel.
    Did you continually use VO in diesel engines non-stop from the late 70's through the 80's and 90's into the 00's until you started experimenting on using VO as a fuel in diesel vehicles around 2006 after you joined this forum?
    Last edited by tillyfromparadise; 15th March 2018 at 03:05 PM.


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