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Thread: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

  1. #1
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    5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    I know all the stuff about viscosity when cold verses viscosity when hot, Please dont go there, also as my engine has 1/2 Million ks on it I like a slightly heavier oil, hence the 50 grade rather than 40, so dont go there either.
    Question??? Now again and again I read stuff saying the lower whatever W oil gives better, as in faster lubrication and protection at start up [where most wear occurs] ,So on cold start a 5W50 oil is much thinner than a 20W50 and the 5W50 gets pumped and splashed around much quicker.
    But im imagining myself as a lonely little big end bearing, iv"e had a tuff life and my tolerances are getting bigger as i get older [know the feeling] . Once when I was nice and tight, my close tolerances would hold that 5W50 or 10W50 inplace while cold until my next start, with i think cohesive forces. but now with wider gaps the thinner oil just runs down and out. OOHH that gravity sh#t. So now on startup I am dry.

    The 20W50 oil being a little thicker when cold may tend to Remain in those wider gaps.
    David

  2. #2
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    WA
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    Quote Originally Posted by dagwill View Post
    I know all the stuff about viscosity when cold verses viscosity when hot, Please dont go there, also as my engine has 1/2 Million ks on it I like a slightly heavier oil, hence the 50 grade rather than 40, so dont go there either.
    Question??? Now again and again I read stuff saying the lower whatever W oil gives better, as in faster lubrication and protection at start up [where most wear occurs] ,So on cold start a 5W50 oil is much thinner than a 20W50 and the 5W50 gets pumped and splashed around much quicker.
    But im imagining myself as a lonely little big end bearing, iv"e had a tuff life and my tolerances are getting bigger as i get older [know the feeling] . Once when I was nice and tight, my close tolerances would hold that 5W50 or 10W50 inplace while cold until my next start, with i think cohesive forces. but now with wider gaps the thinner oil just runs down and out. OOHH that gravity sh#t. So now on startup I am dry.

    The 20W50 oil being a little thicker when cold may tend to Remain in those wider gaps.
    David
    You have the basics of it 'down pat'.
    For a worn engine, go for higher viscosity, both cold and hot.
    eg a 20W50 oil is better for an old engine. I believe that you are better off with an old vehicle to use the cheapest oil in the rating you prefer and change the oil more often. It won't cost any more but will get rid of particles that could cause more wear.
    I do not believe that the bearings will be "dry". They will not have much oil on them, but at start-up, there is less force on the bearings than when running.
    You could get an electric oil pump to prime the bearings prior to cranking. This would eliminate the issue of "dry" bearings completely.

    Have fun,
    Tony
    Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

    Current Vehicles in stable:
    '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
    '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
    '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

    Previous Vehicles:
    '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
    '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
    '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
    '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
    '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
    '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
    '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
    '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
    '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

    Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
    Adding images and/or documents to your posts


  3. #3
    Join Date
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    lyndoch south australia
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    Hey Toni thats something I have wondered about for half my life [ electric oil priming pump ] something you could hit foe 3 or 4 seconds prior to startup, so that you already have oil pressure when you hit the starter. Every car ive had runs for several seconds before the oil light goes out. Sometimes there will even be a clatter in those first seconds. Do you have any further info on such priming pumps

  4. #4
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    WA
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    Quote Originally Posted by dagwill View Post
    Hey Toni that's something I have wondered about for half my life [ electric oil priming pump ] something you could hit foe 3 or 4 seconds prior to startup, so that you already have oil pressure when you hit the starter. Every car I've had runs for several seconds before the oil light goes out. Sometimes there will even be a clatter in those first seconds. Do you have any further info on such priming pumps
    I have not researched this application, but there are 12V gear pumps which I use to shift WVO around. I feel that they would work well as they can deliver at pressure, can move a lot of oil and they are only around $100 each.
    You need to look for a way to suck the oil from your sump and feed it into the oil galleries.
    Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

    Current Vehicles in stable:
    '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
    '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
    '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

    Previous Vehicles:
    '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
    '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
    '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
    '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
    '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
    '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
    '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
    '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
    '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

    Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
    Adding images and/or documents to your posts


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Townsville, North Queensland
    Posts
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony From West Oz View Post
    I have not researched this application, but there are 12V gear pumps which I use to shift WVO around. I feel that they would work well as they can deliver at pressure, can move a lot of oil and they are only around $100 each.
    You need to look for a way to suck the oil from your sump and feed it into the oil galleries.
    ou would also want a non return valve in the priming pump circuit so that once you start the engine and shut off the priming pump your oil pressure does not bleed off through it back into your sump.

    Y

  6. #6
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    lyndoch south australia
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    [FONT=&quot]P TO 5% WHEN YOU BUY MORE
    somethimg like this
    Mouse over to Zoom
    -
    Click to enlarge





    [CENTER]Click to view larger image


    [TABLE="class: vi-centerclass"]
    [TR]
    Last edited by dagwill; 30th January 2019 at 12:07 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    lyndoch south australia
    Posts
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    [FONT=&quot]
    Check if this part fits your vehicle
    Contact the seller
    possibly with some hard copper plumbing , T peice at the oil pressure take off







    Mouse over image to zoom






    [CENTER][TABLE="class: vi-centerclass"]
    [TR]
    Last edited by dagwill; 30th January 2019 at 12:10 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Townsville, North Queensland
    Posts
    642

    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    Provided thosw items are rated or the temps they may encounter. The pump at 1-4 litres per minute would be around the capacity I would expect you would need.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    WA
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    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    I use these as oil transfer pumps. I have found them reliable and move plenty of oil. They can deliver a high pressure in low flow applications.
    As it will run for about a minute at cold starts, they should last forever.
    Also, no NRV (non return valve) needed.
    Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

    Current Vehicles in stable:
    '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
    '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
    '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

    Previous Vehicles:
    '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
    '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
    '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
    '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
    '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
    '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
    '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab well body. [Head gasket blew!]
    '04 Rexton SUV 2.9L Turbodiesel same as Musso - Our Family car.
    '06 Musso sports Crew Cab Trayback - My hack (no air cond, no heater).

    Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
    Adding images and/or documents to your posts


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,229

    Re: 5W50 or 10w50 or 20W50

    What you need Dagwill is an oil accumulator. I seriously looked at fitting one of these many years ago when I first bought my diesel 4WD but it was a fair bit of engineering to undertake so eventually I forgot about it.
    Here is a link to one
    https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...h/#HowAccWorks
    To use a pump you would need to tee into the existing oil pump delivery( this may be hard as most fit directly into the block) and the Pick up of the factory pump. An adaptor on the oil filter may be another way. The gear pump would be the best type of pump as when it is stops turning flow is locked.
    Johnnojack
    4WD Isuzu Jackaroo 3.1 200000km on WVO,(2020) 2 tank home built system 6 solenoids FPHE, heated filter fuel line and tank pickup for thicker oil. Mk. 9 version now and no changes planned as trouble free.
    Mercedes W201 190D 1986 model: 2 tank system, bigger fuel line from tank, no heat exchanger, electric pump for diesel 22000km so far

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