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Thread: Engine oil level increases between changes

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,212

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    I'm going the opposite to Cade in saying that cold starts advance the timing, so if you advanced it more it may now be too much when cold. A rattle or what is known as 'nailing' when starting can result from over advancing. White smoke from the intake? Injecting before intake valve closed properly? or leaking valve. Did you do a valve clearance check?
    Johnnojack
    4WD Isuzu Jackaroo 3.1 190000km on WVO,(2019) 2 tank home built system 6 solenoids heated filter, fuel line and tank pickup for thicker oil. Mk. 9 version now and no changes planned
    Mercedes W201 190D 1986 model: no fuel mods except bigger fuel line from tank, running blend of 90% oil 10% petrol 11000km to date. Motor purrs but car has electrical gremlins

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Brisbane (North Side)
    Posts
    789

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Your probably quite correct Johnno, I wasnít quite sure which way it went, but the mist would suggest it is injecting early. Iím surprised there is that much adjustment in the pump timing that the injection could occur with the valve still open. Under that situation the stoiciometric ratio would be unlikely to be achievable given the fuel losses.

    Either way way I still think the timing is terribly off.
    Regards,

    Cade.

    2006 Landcruiser HDJ100 (1HD-FTE) 20,000 on bio
    2006 Ford Courier(WLT Motor), 10,000 on bio
    2002 Landcruiser HZJ105r (1HZ motor) 250,000 on bio (sold)
    2006 Mazda B2500 (WLT motor) 80,000 on bio (sold)



  3. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    259

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    I've solved it! It is now running as good as ever and starting with ease and normal smoke for a 12C morning.

    I had everything barse akwards.

    I still don't know which way is advance or retard, but I was rotating the IP towards the engine, which I assumed was advancing.

    Yesterday, I turned it back to the original witness marks I made before removing it and it started fine, but again with a bit of smoke.

    I then decided to try going the opposite way - turning the IP away from the engine towards the passenger site guard - probably about 0.5 mm between the witness marks at first (as this is as far as it would turn without loosening the hard lines). I took it for a drive and it seemed less smoky.

    I then thought 'let's go for gold' and I loosened the hardliners off at the IP and rotated it a bit further. It now started better, felt more powerful and less smoky. It was slightly more rattly than normal, but almost imperceptible.

    I figured I'd leave it there for now and see how a cold start went this morning - perfect instant start, minimal smoke. So I will leave it here for now and see how it goes on the highway and up some hills.

    According to my digital EGT & boost gauge:

    • EGTs appear lower than they were around town, but
    • boost is down from what it was back to where it used to be. I flogged the hell out of it today and was only making 13.5 PSI but when the timing was wrong I was getting up to 14.5 PSI regularly. I don't care, because the vehicle is performing much better across the board now. My theory is that the poorly combusted fuel may have still been igniting on its way out the manifolds and still expanding in the turbine housing? Probably BS, but one theory.


    So in summary, what I've learned (assuming I am correct in my assumptions about advancing and retarding and I haven't got them around the wrong way):

    1. On my vehicle, to advance, rotate the pump away from the engine. Could this be because it is a gear driven pump? If there are an even number of gears between the crankshaft and IP, it will rotate in the opposite direction? If belt driven it always rotates in the same direction?
    2. You can move the IP quite a bit without having to loosen the hard lines at the IP. This is beneficial as you don't have to bleed at the injectors, which really should be done by removing all the intake crap so you can get a good purchase on the injector nuts.
    3. If you do get air in the hard lines, you have to crack the injectors to get it out an it makes a mess every time.
    4. Retarded timing creates a lot of smoke, rough idle on start-up, higher EGTs, but more boost. If you go too far, it won't start when cold. Possibly fuel consumption drops off as well. I haven't got through a whole tank yet, but it seems lower than it should be at this point.
    5. I still don't know what the consequences of too much advance are and hope that I'm not in that category if it is detrimental. In a petrol car, it is detonation, high EGTs and burning holes in pistons, right?
    6. Don't waste your money on eBay dial gauge timing kits. I did buy one of these for about $50 and none of the combinations would work on my IP. The rods were either too long or too short to get the right travel in the dial gauge. They did offer a refund though.
    7. Don't attempt this if you haven't done it before and are on a tight time budget. If I had unlimited time I would have solved this in few solid hours rather than in bits and pieces over the course of weeks and weeks.


    Thanks again for your support! I am very relieved to have this sorted out.
    Last edited by 3DB; 30th July 2019 at 03:02 PM. Reason: typos
    3DB
    1995 Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2.8TD 4X4 - B100 since April 2013
    1976 Mercedes 300D Turbo 'The Coal Grenade' - B100 since May 2016
    (@thirddegreeburns on Instagram)

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