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Thread: Engine oil level increases between changes

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
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    264

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnojack View Post
    Trust yourself and have a crack
    You inspired me, John. I put it all back together today with the new seal and it is running same as it ever did.

    One issue I had was that I couldn't get one of the rear mounting bolts back in - the one closest to the block. The angle of the pump was such that I couldn't get it straight enough to start the threads. I could have rotated the pump, but I didn't want to mess with the timing. I ground about 4mm of threads off it and still couldn't get it in!

    What's involved with rotating the pump once it's in? Will I need to remove the hard fuel lines again? Ideally I don't want to leave that bolt out as I suppose with only 3 in the alloy casting on the pump body could crack over time.

    I also did the valve clearances and most of them seemed tight rather than loose - this is also commonplace on the Mercedes OM617 engine - is it diesel thing in general?

    One thing I did find though that I'm concerned about, is the very rear rocker arm had a lot of sideways play. It felt like it needed to be shimmed or something. It rocks on a long rail and it seems like the only thing holding it in place at top-dead-centre is a circlip at the end. It wouldn't be hard to add some metal or nylon shims if I got the right size. I've made another little video to show it:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/dp620g4rhw...%20pm.mov?dl=0
    Last edited by 3DB; 1st June 2019 at 05:52 PM.
    3DB
    1995 Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2.8TD 4X4 - B100 since April 2013
    1976 Mercedes 300D Turbo 'The Coal Grenade' - B100 since May 2016
    1994 Peugeot 405 SRDT 1.9L intercooled turbo diesel (Shitbox Rally car.) - B100 since August 2019
    @thirddegreeburns on Instagram
    @thirddegreeburns2019 on Facebook

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,214

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Mounting bolts. I think that the 4 bolts are the ones which hold the steel mounting plate to the engine. The alloy IP body is held by just 2 bolts to that plate. It should have, (saying only because my Jackaroo has one) a heavy steel bracket under the back of the pump which does the main supporting role for the pump mounting. Sent you a photo if you can post it. That said I have seen other engines with only the 2 front flange bolts holding the pump on the engine. Perhaps the Jackaroo is built a bit tougher for 4wding I don't know.
    Re the valve rocker I don't really know but I'd look for any adverse wear caused by the excess lateral movement, if none then leave it. Regards Johnno
    Last edited by Johnnojack; 1st June 2019 at 11:05 PM.
    Johnnojack
    4WD Isuzu Jackaroo 3.1 190000km on WVO,(2019) 2 tank home built system 6 solenoids heated filter, fuel line and tank pickup for thicker oil. Mk. 9 version now and no changes planned
    Mercedes W201 190D 1986 model: no fuel mods except bigger fuel line from tank, running blend of 90% oil 10% petrol 11000km to date. Motor purrs but car has electrical gremlins

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Brisbane (North Side)
    Posts
    800

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Good stuff. Glad you got it back together and it runs well!

    Concur with Johnno, if it isnt wearing, I would leave it too. Does it make lots of noise? if it is quiet I would definitely leave it.
    Regards,

    Cade.

    2006 Landcruiser HDJ100 (1HD-FTE) 20,000 on bio
    2006 Ford Courier(WLT Motor), 10,000 on bio
    2002 Landcruiser HZJ105r (1HZ motor) 250,000 on bio (sold)
    2006 Mazda B2500 (WLT motor) 80,000 on bio (sold)



  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    264

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Quote Originally Posted by Captaincademan View Post
    if it isn't wearing, I would leave it too. Does it make lots of noise? if it is quiet I would definitely leave it.
    Now that I've seen it, I'm hearing noises! You know how it is. No obvious signs of wear that I noticed. Who knows how long it has been like that, so I'll let it go for now and get some other opinions.

    Regarding the mounting bolt - Johnno I did get your photo and have uploaded a marked up version to Dropbox:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/55map0iscg...%20IP.JPG?dl=0

    I have two places where my pump bolts to the steel bracket as shown in the photo. The one closest to the block is my problem due to the angle of the pump hard up against the block - it was quite tough to remove too because of this. If I had my time over, I would have loosely screwed this bolt into the bracket before re-inserting the pump. But once I got the pump in I wasn't keen to take it out again to get that bolt in. I reckon I can get the bolt in if I loosen the two timing screws and rotate the bottom of the pump away from the block slightly. I have made some punch marks on it, so should be able to get it back to where it was again. Just not thrilled with having to undo the hard lines again and spill more fuel everywhere, but if I have to do it, so be it.
    3DB
    1995 Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2.8TD 4X4 - B100 since April 2013
    1976 Mercedes 300D Turbo 'The Coal Grenade' - B100 since May 2016
    1994 Peugeot 405 SRDT 1.9L intercooled turbo diesel (Shitbox Rally car.) - B100 since August 2019
    @thirddegreeburns on Instagram
    @thirddegreeburns2019 on Facebook

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    ลึก ประเทศอินเด&
    Posts
    2,102

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Hi 3DB,

    There is clearly a design fault here.
    I have checked the appropriate JSA industrial standard and it clearly states that, at a minimum, for automotive equipment exported to Australia, the equipment is to be designed in such a way that no more 1/3 of the mounting bolts are to be able to be reinstalled without first completely removing the engine from the car. It further states that designing the equipment is such a fashion that mounting bolts can not be reinstalled without first removing the Crankshaft is desirable, this is not yet compulsory.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    264

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Quote Originally Posted by tillyfromparadise View Post
    There is clearly a design fault here..
    Agree - totally non-compliant.

    I lived in the US for a while and while their vehicles have many shortcomings, the older ones are so much easier to work on. Everything is easily accessible and fairly straightforward. My Mercedes is an amazing piece of engineering for its time - 4 wheel disc brakes and independent rear suspension in 1976 - it took Ford and GM another 20 years to get there, but a lot of the tech like 'vacuum everything' and hydraulic self-levelling suspension sure is a pain in the ar5e 40 years later if it hasn't been maintained well.

    I honestly don't know how backyarders deal with compact Japanese and European front-wheel-drive cars.
    3DB
    1995 Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2.8TD 4X4 - B100 since April 2013
    1976 Mercedes 300D Turbo 'The Coal Grenade' - B100 since May 2016
    1994 Peugeot 405 SRDT 1.9L intercooled turbo diesel (Shitbox Rally car.) - B100 since August 2019
    @thirddegreeburns on Instagram
    @thirddegreeburns2019 on Facebook

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,214

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Ok I now know which bolt it is. At least you have the bracket under it, the second bolt is probably just the belt of a belt and braces bit of engineering. Regarding the injector lines I think if you just crack them loose on the distributor head before rotating the pump they should be ok. The pump can't turn very much anyway before hitting the block. Hopefully you can get the bolt in. Those 2 bolts have Allen heads don't they? Also the bracket has slots in it so maybe the one you can't get in is hitting the end of the slot. Loosen the 2 on the engine.
    Johnnojack
    4WD Isuzu Jackaroo 3.1 190000km on WVO,(2019) 2 tank home built system 6 solenoids heated filter, fuel line and tank pickup for thicker oil. Mk. 9 version now and no changes planned
    Mercedes W201 190D 1986 model: no fuel mods except bigger fuel line from tank, running blend of 90% oil 10% petrol 11000km to date. Motor purrs but car has electrical gremlins

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    264

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnojack View Post
    Those 2 bolts have Allen heads don't they?
    Mine are 14mm hex head M10 x 1.5. Thankfully they aren't Allen or I'd be stuffed I reckon - or just have to buy a set of Allen sockets.

    I went to try to turn the pump to put the bolt in today and you wouldn't believe it - I somehow lost my anti-theft wheel nut adaptor, so I couldn't take the wheel off. I wasted a good half hour hunting everywhere for it, then (like an idiot) tried to:
    1. cold chisel the wheel nut off - waste of time
    2. weld a 3/4" socket onto it - chrome doesn't weld very well
    3. weld another wheel nut onto it - see point 2
    4. drill a hole in it and wind it out with an easy-out bolt extractor. I blunted several drill bits and destroyed the easy-out.


    All of this took at least another hour until I drove down to the local K-mart Tyre & Auto and the legend of a bloke there had a massive battery impact driver and a special set of sockets that cut into the wheel nut to extract them. He pulled all 4 in a couple of minutes and wouldn't charge me for it.

    What a nightmare. I can't believe this hasn't happened before today though, so they are all going the recycling bin and standard ones put on.

    So now I'm another 3 hours down the tube and am running on 75% of my injector pump bolts and 83% of my wheel nuts.

    I can't help but feel I'm going backwards somehow...

    Oh, and I also I found that my water-to-air intercooler that I was so proud of is now leaking coolant from the core into the intake manifold. Who knows how long that has been happening, but lucky I caught it before it really failed and I had a hydraulic lock-up!

    ��
    Last edited by 3DB; 3rd June 2019 at 07:57 PM.
    3DB
    1995 Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2.8TD 4X4 - B100 since April 2013
    1976 Mercedes 300D Turbo 'The Coal Grenade' - B100 since May 2016
    1994 Peugeot 405 SRDT 1.9L intercooled turbo diesel (Shitbox Rally car.) - B100 since August 2019
    @thirddegreeburns on Instagram
    @thirddegreeburns2019 on Facebook

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    4,267

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Quote Originally Posted by 3DB View Post
    Mine are 14mm hex head M10 x 1.5. Thankfully they aren't Allen or I'd be stuffed I reckon - or just have to buy a set of Allen sockets.

    I went to try to turn the pump to put the bolt in today and you wouldn't believe it - I somehow lost my anti-theft wheel nut adaptor, so I couldn't take the wheel off. I wasted a good half hour hunting everywhere for it, then (like an idiot) tried to:
    1. cold chisel the wheel nut off - waste of time
    2. weld a 3/4" socket onto it - chrome doesn't weld very well
    3. weld another wheel nut onto it - see point 2
    4. drill a hole in it and wind it out with an easy-out bolt extractor. I blunted several drill bits and destroyed the easy-out.


    All of this took at least another hour until I drove down to the local K-mart Tyre & Auto and the legend of a bloke there had a massive battery impact driver and a special set of sockets that cut into the wheel nut to extract them. He pulled all 4 in a couple of minutes and wouldn't charge me for it.

    What a nightmare. I can't believe this hasn't happened before today though, so they are all going the recycling bin and standard ones put on.

    So now I'm another 3 hours down the tube and am running on 75% of my injector pump bolts and 83% of my wheel nuts.

    I can't help but feel I'm going backwards somehow...

    Oh, and I also I found that my water-to-air intercooler that I was so proud of is now leaking coolant from the core into the intake manifold. Who knows how long that has been happening, but lucky I caught it before it really failed and I had a hydraulic lock-up!

    ��
    3DB,
    Water - Air intercoolers are really good for Petrol engines because they are on boost much less than diesels, which are on boost whenever over 2K RPM. For diesels, Air - Air intercoolers are the way to go (and you don't get the water going into the manifold either) Plenty of choice for used air - air intercoolers too.
    The size of the intercooler is a trade off between intercooler size and turbo lag (due to compressing much more air in the plumbing, intercooler and inlet manifold, and friction losses in them, then just in the plumbing and the inlet manifold)

    A whole other field of study.
    Life is a journey, with problems to solve, lessons to learn, but most of all, experiences to enjoy.

    Current Vehicles in stable:
    '06 Musso Sports 4X4 Manual Crew Cab tray back.
    '04 Rexton 4X4 Automatic SUV
    '2014 Toyota Prius (on ULP) - Wife's car

    Previous Vehicles:
    '90 Mazda Capella. (2000 - 2003) My first Fatmobile. Converted to fun on veggie oil with a 2 tank setup.
    '80 Mercedes 300D. 2 tank conversion [Sold]
    '84 Mercedes 300D. 1 tank, no conversion. Replaced engine with rebuilt OM617A turbodiesel engine. Finally had good power. Engine donor for W123 coupe. (body parted out and carcass sold for scrap.)
    '99 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my darling Wife's car)[sold]
    '98 Mercedes W202 C250 Turbodiesel (my car)[sold]
    '85 Mercedes Benz W123 300CD Turbodiesel
    '06 Musso Sports Crew Cab. [Head gasket blew!]

    Searching the Biofuels Forum using Google
    Adding images and/or documents to your posts


  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    264

    Re: Engine oil level increases between changes

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony From West Oz View Post
    3DB,
    Water - Air intercoolers are really good for Petrol engines because they are on boost much less than diesels, which are on boost whenever over 2K RPM. For diesels, Air - Air intercoolers are the way to go (and you don't get the water going into the manifold either) Plenty of choice for used air - air intercoolers too.
    The size of the intercooler is a trade off between intercooler size and turbo lag (due to compressing much more air in the plumbing, intercooler and inlet manifold, and friction losses in them, then just in the plumbing and the inlet manifold)

    A whole other field of study.
    At the risk of taking this topic on a tangent, I think the efficiencies of both types of intercooler could be identical if sized appropriately. Water has a higher heat storage capacity than air so that type can have a smaller surface area to remove the same amount of heat with less resistance and pressure drop. The downside is more complex plumbing and a secondary cooling circuit requiring a pump and, as I have found, potential for leaks into the engine. One other upside for 4x4s is they work better than air-to-air at low speed when there is limited air flow.


    air-to-air are much simpler but require larger surface area, ideally at the front of the vehicle. This is the main reason I didn’t go down that road - my bullbar limits space. That and trying to run 2.5” or larger pipework between the turbo, intercooler and intake proved difficult.


    For now I will just go back to the OEM no charge cooling.


    I’m interested to see what my EGTs will do without it.






    3DB
    1995 Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2.8TD 4X4 - B100 since April 2013
    1976 Mercedes 300D Turbo 'The Coal Grenade' - B100 since May 2016
    1994 Peugeot 405 SRDT 1.9L intercooled turbo diesel (Shitbox Rally car.) - B100 since August 2019
    @thirddegreeburns on Instagram
    @thirddegreeburns2019 on Facebook

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