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Thread: Magnesol and dry washing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    South Australia (riverland)
    Posts
    13

    Magnesol and dry washing

    Is anyone interested in Magnesol and dry washing process? Interested in obtaining Magnesol at a cost effective rate in Melbourne? Please feel free to contact me, as I might have some useful information if anyone wants to know, and I can post it here. A rough costing of using Magnesol to dry wash biodiesel would work out to about 5.6c per litre, if there was enough interest to get a pallet of 40 bags (approx 816kg) landed in Melbourne. Also some information on pretty cheap Gas Chromatograph analysis testing of free glycerol,mono,di and tri glycerides and total glycerol as per ASTM D6584 standard.A consultant in New Zealand has the equipment to do such tests and it only requires 1ml posted there! Such a test would cost around $110.
    Happy to pass on contact information,or help organise a delivery here if there is some interest, because I am interested in the process, and bought 2x20kg bags as a special 'trial' lot which will still only add 7.1c per litre to my total biodiesel cost. Still cheap fuel....only cleaner of glycerol and water I hope!.....and no use of water. Cheers all. Jason

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    South Australia (riverland)
    Posts
    13

    Re: dry washing

    Hi. Interesting what you are doing with the magnesol. Where do you get the magnesol from...and how much do you put in your batches per 100L of biodiesel? I have a 1kg sample sent to me to try from New Zealand, so when I try it, I will send results to you and see how it shapes up. J

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    southcoast
    Posts
    78

    Re: Magnesol and dry washing

    Hi Jason
    I have new information and it might save you some money. I will start a new thread on powder washing but thought I would put this in this thread as it is the results of what I was working on last year.
    where it started-----I found it very hard to make enough bio each week for both of my cars using the water wash method,
    it was taking about a week to make 100 ltrs . I also wanted a method that saved water.
    I did a lot of research into the washing of bio using magnesol
    I found magnesol was to expensive so I started to experiment with all my pottery clays.
    I have been a professional potter for the last 40 years , I have had a lot of experience making glazes
    and pottery clays for my ceramic production , in my early years I worked in a ceramic laboratory .
    I was looking for a clay that would not leave a residue, would have good absorption properties
    one that would settle quickly so that the bio could be siphoned off.
    After 8 mths of tests and different mixes of powders I feel it is time to let everybody know
    what results I have come up with.
    I have made about 3000 ltrs using this powder and have other people making bio the same way.
    The cars I have are Toyota Land cruiser turbo 1986 model, Mercedes 300d turbo both run on %100 Bio.
    The powder is a Gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) .Gypsum is used in tennis court construction,
    beer production, pottery plaster, toothpaste, food additives, paint manufacture, casts and sculpture.
    I was mixing it with other powders and testing it in jars looking at all the properties I mentioned before.
    I have found that the Kiss (keep it simple stupid ) method has worked best, without going into all of the
    technical jargon and information the powder can be bought at Boral or ceramic supply store for about $20
    for a 25kg bag. below is the method I use.
    It will be up to you if you want to experiment any further , the quantities are what I am using at the moment.
    One interesting property of the Bio using the powder is that it will not jell in the fridge as the water wash Bio
    does. this would be a good quality if you live in a colder climate.
    The powder takes out fats and i think this is the reason it won't jelly as easy.
    I do not know if taking out to much fat will change the "bang" factor , both cars run great with this fuel, I have always noticed
    slightly less power when I use Bio , even before I used the powder .This is only when I tow a van or trailer .
    The process of making 100ltrs of Bio is only 2 days and this includes the settling time. The only filter I use is a Zee Line filter on
    my storage tank, this is on the pump that I use to fill the cars.
    I hope the above makes sense, it is hard to put so much info into a shortened version.
    I hope this gives you enough confidence to give it a go, HAPPY BIO- MAKING
    Oily

    Bio- Clearing powder

    Quantity can vary as it is the cost factor that will govern how much you put in. As a guide use about 1 to 2 kg per 100 ltr.

    After draining the Glyc from the Bio reaction tank TRANSFER the
    Bio to another tank, reheat the bio to 45-50 deg c.
    Turn on the mixer to agitate it. Slowly add powder, Wear appropriate
    Dust mask when doing this!!!.
    leave the mixer on for 30 to 45 min then leave to settle overnight.
    The next day, pump the Bio into a storage container or your car but leave about 8-10 ltr of Bio in the bottom of the tank, this is to mix with the sludge for easy removal .
    To remove the sludge from the bottom of the tank mix the sludge and bio with a stick or stirrer so that it will all mix together then open the valve to drain the contents, stir whilst draining.
    What is collected in the drum is left standing overnight to settle and the clear bio is then drained of the top. The sludge can be disposed of and the bio used. There is no need to clean container as any paste left will not contaminate the next mix.

    Caution----- keep moisture away from powder before use. Best if stored in airtight container


    Health and Safety

    1. Do not ingest contents of package. If ingested, seek medical advice
    1. avoid creating dust when handling and mixing. If dust is unavoidable, insure adequate ventilation; wear eye protection and an approved disposable respirator, which conforms, to Australian standard AS 1716 Type P1 or P2.
    2. If dust causes irritation, use impervious PVC, nitrile or rubber gloves.
    3. Dust from this product is classified as hazardous according to criteria of Worksafe Australia.
    4. keep contents out of reach of children.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    ryde
    Posts
    12

    Re: Magnesol and dry washing

    Am still assembling the bits to get up and run with making my biodiesel- am down your way next weekend and would like to see tank- dry wash seems a great solution- hope to speak further- Adrian- 0298026532
    aschofield2001@yahoo.com.au

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