Hj45 Troopy Conversion

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi bj40,

my setup should work for your bj, it just depends if you want a quick purge or not. I purge for 10km when I shut down for the day to flush the shared filter out well.

I am not worried about a quick purge as most of my driving is longer distances and I'm also blending my startup fuel.

If you want a quicker purge use a filter for each fuel and get your changeover valve as close to the ip as you can.

In my diesel tank now it's summer, the troopy runs and starts well on a blend of 30% diesel, 20% ulp and 50%wvo.

The blend I was using during winter was 70% diesel, 10% ulp and 20%wvo.

If the higher ulp blend goes well during summer, next winter I will be trying a new blend of 50% diesel, 20%ulp and 30%wvo.

God bless froggo.

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi everyone

I have not posted on my conversion thread for ages but just wanted to update a recent event.

On a trip this weekend the vaccume gauage showed for the first time that I was in need of a fuel filter change.

I use the 296 filter which is 5 microns. The fuel flow rate is adequate for my 3.6 litre n/a engine.

Up to today I have never seen my vac gauage read over 6 HG. I was unsure what the upper limit of my system was. I now know that at 8 HG's my engine is starting to starve for fuel.

I did not purge my system of wvo at the end of this trip because on diesel the lift pump was pulling 9HG's and there was a clear stutter/fuel starvation.

Back on wvo the stutter was gone and the vac was reading 6HG's.

I'm glad that I have the vac gauage on my system now because it alerted me to a problem before the injector pump was starved of fuel.

I changed out the filter today and will cut it open and post some pictures.

After the filter change everything was back to normal. On wvo 2-3 HG's and on diesel 3-4 HG's.

God bless froggo

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi everyone,

here is a pic of my fuel filter that I changed out when my vac gauage showed it was blocking.


This picture is the fuel from the glass bowl and filter, notice the wvo sediment and some larger chunks of stuff.


This filter has done approx 8000 km's on wvo and blends. There is more sediment than I though there would be.

The wvo that I'm now using has been filtered through my cold upflow system then stored in 20litre drums, I put the date on the lid for rotation.

I'm now up to using wvo that is one year old after 2 micron filtering and there is still sediment in my filter bowl.

Anyone else found sediment when changing out filters?

God bless froggo.

[Captain Echidna Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Captain Echidna]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

My filters was getting like that in the merc regularly. When filtering I used I used to pump through a 5 micron bag filter, (after the shopping bag filter) which I believe was stretching it so the fine stuff was getting through. I now gravity feed through that filter, and seems to have stopped it.
If this is the first filter change I wouldnt worry about it, it look like what I get out of mine.

[Socrates Donating Member Find all posts View Profile Close Socrates]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

I have been through two since setting up. After about 1000km the vacuum started showing that it was blocking up so I then change the filter. I didn't pull either apart but I wouldn't mind betting they were similar to the pics above.

I've now changed to 1 micron filtering. We'll see how we go with that. It should improve matters.

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi everyone thanks for the replies,

one good thing that I noticed when I removed the filter cartridge was the top of the filter was spotless. There was no sign of the silt making it through the filter.

I thought that if the silt was making it through there would be some deposited around the top of the filter element, filter body and outlets.

I'm happy with the results so far. My filters are lasting well, there has been no sudden blockages or breakdowns.

I think as long as I'm filtering to my current 2micron standard things should be ok as the troopies standard filter was designed to allow much larger particles through.

I'm not to keen on the CF's. I love to tinker but I rekon it's overkill. Some people are just way over the top about their wvo. You know what I mean DJ.

I looked at what my standard fuel systems filtering requirements were. As long as I prepared my wvo to this standard or better, then in theory there would be no problems.

To date this seems to be the result.

God bless froggo.

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi everyone,

after the probs with a cracked head on my 3.6litre "H" motor I have done a full rebuild.

The overhaul at 700,000km included a full reco of my inline ip. Reco injectors and a full rebuild or my engine which included a brand new head.

I'm running the engine in at the moment on diesel. I will not be using wvo until I'm happy that the rings are fully bedded in.

I have a water injection system built ready to be installed when I start running on wvo again.

There is a possibility that my engine's head cracked due to a hot spot in the head and/or overfueling.

This hotspot may of been a deposit of carbon that retained heat because the engine at no time overheated.

On the rebuild I'm going to run a water injection system as per Dave Jones wiper washer setup as I believe this will prevent the build up of carbon deposits around the injectors and pre-comp chamber.

Old motor out.


new motor in


God bless, froggo.

[BrianW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BrianW]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

There is a possibility that my engine's head cracked due to a hot spot in the head and/or overfueling.

This hotspot may of been a deposit of carbon that retained heat because the engine at no time overheated.

Hi Froggo,

Which cylinder cracked and were you doing a long drive or making the engine work had under load before it cracked?

Picture links not yet working.

Does the new engine feel stronger than the 700,000km one?

all the best,
Brian

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi BrianW,

I was out and about doing a long hilly fishing trips into the mountains around Eildon Vic and I noticed a small rise in the coolent temp.

I my 2 tank system a I have been using a wvo blend of 90% wvo and 10% ULP. In my start up tank a blend of 40%wvo 10% ULP and 50% diesel.

At first I thought the thermostat was faulty, then maybe the water pump was not getting max flow.

The only symptoms were a slight increase in temp and coolent being blown out the radiator into the overflow bottle. I noticed a slight rise in oil temp also. Being a old vehicle with crap guages it was hard to see any changes.

There was no oil in water or water in oil so it was some time later that I noticed a build up of pressure in the coolent system.

After sitting for a day I opened the radiator cap and there was still pressure in the coolent system. After the coolent/engine was cold there should be not pressure in the system.

Exhaust gasses were leaking into the coolent jacket making pressure to blow coolent into overflow.

I have never seen this before and it caused me grief until I worked it out.

I could not tell which cylinder was leaking as it was a minor leak that was hard to see.

I think it was the cylinder 5 as a glow plug was damaged in that cyclinder and failed due to overheating. It was pitted and looked melted.

The pre comp chamber was not any worse than the others but there was some carbon build up around the injector.

When I had the ip rebuilt there was no mention of anything being wierd as they did not know I used wvo or bio

The pump needed more than a kit and required a full overhaul that cost $1000.

The agri diesel shop who did the rebuild rekon that if the engine did not overheat to crack the head it would have been overfueling via the ip or faulty injector that caused the problem.

They are so confident in their diagnosis that they do not warrenty reco engines unless you reco the injectors.

It is still a bit of a mystery but as It was going to cost me less to get the engine rebuilt I did not fully pull my old engine down.

The new engine has more go between 60-100km/ph but this could be due to reco ip.
At low revs it would be great for pulling out tree stumps. These engines are have heaps of torque but not much go, they are a real tractors and great for offroad billygoat track work.

I'm quite happy with the new engines performance over the old unit. It will be better for towing the camper up mountain bush tracks to find that secret fishing spot, it seems to have enought poke to move with the traffic on the highway.

God bless froggo

[Tony From West Oz Vice Chairperson of WARFA Find all posts View Profile Close Tony From West Oz]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

If you take the head off, you will quickly see the pot with the crack in the head. It will be the cleanest of them. you may need a magnifying glass to see the crack, but water vapour will get thru there, cleaning the combustion chamber.

Regards,
Tony

[BrianW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BrianW]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

It sounds like you are happy with the new engine, which is great after the costs involved in such a rebuild.

The pressure still in the system after cool down is surprising and indicates it must be a really small crack if it reseals as the engine cools down. No wonder you gave up looking for it.

I understand the cooling systems on Toyota diesel engines is marginal when under load and any localised heating may not be able to be dissipated due to insufficient aerated water to the area (due to water boiling and water pump cavitation) . If it gets too hot then localised boiling will occur and the problem just gets worse, since gases are poor at absorbing heat.

A guy in Perth will sort out a new water pump impellor (hand made) with designs closer to household water pumps. He has done heaps for this engine for wheat farmers and others who basically use them as tractors. He indicated they can be vastly improved with some grinding, polishing (to the cast impellor) and clearance adjustment to the wiping face. This is part of my 12HT rebuilding plans.

[Johnnojack Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Johnnojack]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

It sounds like you are happy with the new engine, which is great after the costs involved in such a rebuild.

The pressure still in the system after cool down is surprising and indicates it must be a really small crack if it reseals as the engine cools down. No wonder you gave up looking for it.

I understand the cooling systems on Toyota diesel engines is marginal when under load and any localised heating may not be able to be dissipated due to insufficient aerated water to the area (due to water boiling and water pump cavitation) . If it gets too hot then localised boiling will occur and the problem just gets worse, since gases are poor at absorbing heat.

A guy in Perth will sort out a new water pump impellor (hand made) with designs closer to household water pumps. He has done heaps for this engine for wheat farmers and others who basically use them as tractors. He indicated they can be vastly improved with some grinding, polishing (to the cast impellor) and clearance adjustment to the wiping face. This is part of my 12HT rebuilding plans.

A good radiator cap is also vital, a higher pressure one could be used to prevent localised boiling in hot spots. There is an additive too, Redline? which can help.

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi BrianW and Johnnojack,

The water pump has been the hardest thing to replace on my engine.

My "H" motor came standrd with a clutch fan that has a shorter pump and flaired spiggot. The only pumps I can buy are longer units that don't allow the space for a clutch. These pumps have a plastic fan bolt straight onto them.

My pump being the origional unit has a replacable bearing and seal. The impellor looks ok but I would like to replace it also so I'm interested in your friends ideas BrianW.

In the new engine I'm going to run almost straight concentrate coolent because it increases the boil and freeze points greatly.

When I first noticed the coolent loss I put a new radiator cap on first as I could see the coolent overflow was overflowing. I noticed the top radiator hose was expanding with pressure.

Must be thermostat I thought so in went a new one, no change. Coolent still going into overflow and a slight temp increase.

Old style remedy was to drill a 5mm hole into therostat to allow the engine to run cooler. The temp dropped back but still blowing coolent.

I took the troopy to a mechanic and told him what I had tried, he took the radiator cap off and put a exhaust gas probe in, let the engine run for about 1/2 hour and got a reading. The constant bubbles from the radiator also confirmed the problem a cracked head.

What I've learned, if you ever open a radiator cap on a stone cold engine and there is alot of pressure a cracked head may be the cause.

There does not have to be oil in the coolent or coolent in the oil to confirm you have a cracked head.

God bless, froggo.

[Tony From West Oz Vice Chairperson of WARFA Find all posts View Profile Close Tony From West Oz]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

I found that the green colouring of the coolant changes to a darker green then towards black, over time, but looks fairly clear when you look thru it, but in the radiator or expansion tank, it looks black.

Regards,
Tony

[froggo Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close froggo]

Re: Hj45 Troopy Conversion

Hi everyone,

the troopy is just about back on the road after the rebuild.

I have water injection fitted delivering 300ml per minute via a toggle switch mounted on the manual gear shift.

I have added a extra gauage to monotor the the engine coolent temps in the head.

I have also decided to run straight diesel in the startup tank and not a blend to reduce the chance of carbon build up on the injectors due to short trips at less than full engine temp.

I have added a ball tap to stop coolent flow to the fphe's when running on diesel.

It's interesting to note that the lift pump via engine oil lube still heats the diesel fuel to 45 deg C before entering the ip.

The veg tank will run 95-90% wvo and 5-10%ULP as per normal.

Pictures to follow of changes to my homemade 2 tank wvo system.

God bless, froggo.